"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Saturday 21 July 2018



Caydale and Noddle End from Murton




7.5 miles                           Hot and sunny



We took the Hawnby turn-off from the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley road and parked on the verge near to the white buildings of Murton Grange. 


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills

Murton Grange

Tom Scott Burns explains that a 'grange' was a farmhouse attached to a religious order and Murton Grange once belonged to the monks of nearby Byland Abbey. 

We set off up the tarmac lane alongside Murton Grange. We came to a fork, the main lane going on to Caydale Mill, but we went straight ahead here and down into the hidden valley of Caydale.  Tom Scott Burns tells us that at this spot the last wild cat in England was shot in 1840, by a Charles Harrison.


Tarmac lane alongside Murton Grange

At the fork bear right through the gate

Caydale

Walking above Caydale we ignored the first track to the left and took the second, which leads to the beck at the bottom of the valley. We crossed it and started the long climb up the other side, passing the location of the 'Captain's Seat' shown on the map above.  Unfortunately this area was cleared of trees last year and in the process the the remains of the Captain's Seat were also destroyed.  

Who the captain was and why he sat at this remote spot, I have been unable to discover despite Google searches, but in the 1740s at this location a Joseph Ford of Kirbymoorside perfected a system of tapping into springs and channeling water in open 'rills' some 12 inches wide.  Water was diverted by this method through Caydale from King Spring to the village of Old Byland.  Perhaps the original memorial seat goes back to those days, who knows.

Crossing Caydale

Climbing out, roughly where the Captain's Seat is shown on the map

Leaving the climb and Caydale we crossed several fields to reach the tarmac of High Leir Lane where we turned right and walked through humid heat to pass Weathercote Farm with its novel 'cat and rat' weather vane.

High Leir Lane

We all admire the new stone walling

Mixed potato crops in flower

Weathercote Farm


Rosebay Willow Herb in flower along High Lear Lane

We have seen yellowhammers in High Lear Lane in previous years and today  we were fortunate to see one that allowed me to come within a few feet with my camera.  Listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species it's one of farmland's most cheerful looking birds and it makes my day to see one.


On tarmac for a mile

Yellowhammer



Tow plane and glider pass overhead

After a mile on the road we reached the junction with Cleveland Road which we crossed to follow field paths for another half mile until reaching the high ridge of Boltby Scar.  


Field paths to Boltby Scar

We reach the Cleveland Way and turn right

Old quarry workings

High Barn

The ruin of High Barn

Sheep in the shade

Turning right we were now following the Cleveland Way along Boltby Scar, past the old quarry workings and the ruins of High Barn, briefly crossing the tarmac of Sneck Yate Bank and on through the trees of Boltby plantation to reach High Paradise Farm and its tea room.  Here we stopped for a leisurely coffee and cake.

Through Boltby Forest ...

... to High Paradise Farm

Tea room at High Paradise

Hungry hikers

Begging rooster at High Paradise


Although a bit awkward to reach for motor traffic, High Paradise is a little oasis for cyclists and walkers and we found the coffee and scones to be superb.

While we sat in the sun I fiddled with my camera and knocked the ISO setting to 25000 instead of 100, so poor quality photos from here on!

Much refreshed, we continued past the farm to reach Sneck Gate and the old Drovers' Road, which we crossed into Daletown Common, eventually reaching the barn at Noddle End.


On Daletown Common

Ruins at Noddle End

Leave Daletown Common through the gate

Starting down into Gowerdale
 We paused at Noddle End to look down into Gowerdale.  The view from this spot is stunning and we gazed at the ruined building of Gowerdale House before starting our descent.

A steep downhill path reaches the solitary and deserted buildings of Gowerdale House.  This area is the site of what was once a medieval village, long since abandoned and TSB speculates whether this resulted from the Black Death visiting this secluded valley.  

We walked in front of the house which has the unfriendly message, "Look around and get out!" painted on the front door, and followed a rising path through the yard of Dale Town Farm.


Gazing down at Gowerdale House

Once a thriving village, now deserted

We walked straight uphill from the farm, turning left along Peak Scar Top and soon reaching Murton Bank Road and our car. 

In the past we would have retired to the Inn at Hawnby for a cooling pint but sadly the Inn has closed and we had to drive a little further, to the Buck at Chop Gate, where we relaxed in the sun and discussed today's walk.

Daletown Farm

Looking down at Daletown Farm, Hawnby Hill and Easterside Hill in the background
The end of the walk







Friday 13 July 2018



Limekiln House and the Drove Road from Kepwick





5.5 miles                          Warm and still


We haven't done today's short walk since 2015 but I thought it might be suitable for someone (me) suffering with toothache and who doesn't feel like walking too far.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills

Tom Scott Burns suggests that Kepwick is derived from the Scandinavian Kaeppi and Vik, producing Kaeppivik which means 'a nook in the hills'.  It's mentioned in the Domesday Book as Capuic.  

In Victorian times it was noted for its lime and sandstone quarries and a railway ran from Kepwick to kilns on the Yarm to Thirsk turnpike road until 1893.  

We approached Kepwick from the A19 via Leake Lane and decided that as today's walk was such a short one, we would take time to visit isolated St Mary's Church, which is clearly visible to drivers passing on the A19.


St Mary's at Leake

The present building (including its main door and some walls) dates back to the 12th century but there was a thriving Saxon village of  Leake with about 1500 inhabitants at this location.  It was destroyed in the 'Harrying of the North' by William the Conquerer, and was described as 'waste' in the Domesday book.  The church continued in this location and became the parish church of nearby Knayton and Borrowby.


Entering St Mary's through the 12th century door


Looking towards the altar 

It was unlocked so we explored the church and graveyard and enjoyed reading some of the morbid epitaphs.

The “pew ends” were originally from Bridlington Priory. They were carved by the famous Ripon School of Carvers in 1519. 

The altar window shows the annunciation

The chancel side windows are by Edward Liddell Armitage in 1934. They show a range of different saints

The modern Lady Chapel window is by Ann Sotheran, a pupil of Harry Harvey, in 1988
'Farewell conflicting hopes and fears, where lights and shades alternate dwell, How bright th'unchanging morn appears, Farewell inconstant world farewell'

'Repent in time no time delay, I in my prime was snatched away, In love we lived in peace I died, My life was ask'd but God denied'

'Oh I have lost my infant dear, so heavenly and so mild, a sweet and lovely babe was she, a meek and patient child'

Leaving St Mary's at Leake we continued to Kepwick and parked at the village hall where there is a free designated car park.  We walked east through the village and admired some of the pretty cottages scattered along the main street, before coming to the main gates of Kepwick Hall.


Cottages in Kepwick







The gate house at Kepwick Hall

At the gates of Kepwick Hall we turned left, following the tarmac road across the remains of the old railway line and then climbing slowly past French Hill Wood to isolated Nab Farm.  

On tarmac for a while

Fine bull near French Hill Wood

French Hill Wood

Our path runs through Nab Farm

Leaving Nab Farm behind we looked down across the valley, over Bridge Beck towards Whitestone Scar and Kepwick Moor on the horizon.  We could see our path all the way to the high moor.

We came to the ruins of an old lime kiln where the path climbed quickly away from it, following a nice green path alongside a dry stone wall.  After a sharp climb we reached a junction of paths where we joined the old Drovers Road.  There were some handy rocks here where we sat and enjoyed our coffee.


Looking towards Whitestone Scar

A spring makes the path muddy going for a while

Old lime kiln

A pleasant green path

Looking over to Kepwick Quarry

Ideal spot for coffee

TSB says that just beyond this point we can see the remains of Limekiln House but today all that can be seen of the building is a few stony outcrops and a recently added marker stone.  Nearby is a small cross dedicated to Bert 2005 RIP. 

The Old Drover's Road




We turned right and walked along the old drovers' road for nearly two miles, until we reached the remains of Steeple Cross.  TSB tells us that Steeple Cross was referred to as Stepingecross in documents dated 1290 and was probably derived from the old English 'steapinga' - 'dweller on the slope', hence 'crossroads of the hill-dwellers'.  All round this area are Bronze Age earthworks. 



Steeple Cross is just before this gate

The remains of Steeple Cross

We turned right at Steeple Cross and walked along the edge of a forestry plantation, soon beginning a slow descent which ended at the top of Gallow Hill. 

Our path is towards the forestry plantation

We take the upper of two tracks....

.... keeping to the edge of the plantation

Here we went through a moor gate where the path becomes a sunken hollow as it crosses the flat plain of Pen Hill.

Early heathers are starting to flower

The top of Pen Hill

After Pen Hill we started a descent Atlay Bank.  Rhododendrons grow thickly on either side of the path for several hundred yards until the track levels into a field. 



Looking over to Nab Farm and our earlier path

Entering the rhododendrons 


At one point the rhododendrons form a tunnel

We crossed the field and reached the road turning right to walk through Kepwick where there is a small privately owned chapel which unfortunately is locked to the public but has an interesting history.

Originally it was a mission room but was rebuilt as a chapel by the Warner family whose only son was shot down during WWI, whilst serving with the RFC against Baron Richthofen's flying circus.  Interestingly his late sister formed the basis of one of James Herriot's characters who owned a lively pekingese dog.  



Cross the field to the road beyond

Privately owned chapel at Kepwick

We made our way back to the car park, which lies just beyond the chapel.  We enjoyed this short but interesting walk.