"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday 23 November 2018



Exploring Scugdale from Carlton Bank


7 miles           Cold and misty


It is 2.5 years since I last blogged this walk.  How time flies and this is a good walk and certainly worth revisiting even though today's weather forecast is poor.

Today was my birthday and for the first time in five years I forgot to pack my camera. I hope this is not a sign of advancing years.  This necessitated that today's photos be taken with my phone so please excuse their quality.

We drove up Carlton Bank to the Lord Stones Cafe and parked in their car park, knowing that we would repay their hospitality on our return.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Lord Stones Cafe

We walked back along the Carlton road until we reached a new Cleveland Way sign, and turned left off the road to follow it uphill.  Almost immediately we turned right from the Cleveland Way and followed the wide access road for the old Gliding Club (now demolished) steadily uphill. We should have had views over the Cleveland Hills towards Roseberry Topping but visibility was poor with low cloud and a fine drizzle.

Turn off the Carlton road at this Cleveland Way sign


Turn off the main track at the footpath sign

Passing Stone Ruck

Reaching the moor top we turned left off the access road where a footpath sign indicated our track across the heather.  The first feature one comes to on this path is the rocky outcrop of Stone Ruck.  Tom Scott Burns explains that Ruck is derived from the Old Norse bruga meaning 'to pile or heap up', as in a cairn.  



Bleak moors path

We followed the path for a mile or so across the moor until we came to Brian's Pond which looked dark and uninviting today.  There was no sign of life so we continued on our way climbing steadily over Clough Gill Top, where a signpost indicates a choice of routes. 


Brian's Pond (north end) We'd like to know the origin of the name, nothing found online.

Brian's Pond (south end)

Turn right


We took the right fork that ascends steadily to the moor rim where we suddenly came upon the valley of Scugdale.   To our right were the rocks of Barker's Crags and below us the buildings of Scugdale Hall.


Scugdale comes into view

Barker's Crags

Looking down into Scugdale

TSB refers to Scugdale as 'the sheltered dale' from the Danish skygger - to overshadow.  

We descended across a couple of fields to reach the dale road where we turned left to walk towards the top of the valley and High House.   Over the years the dales road has been strengthened with stones, tarmac,  pottery and bricks and we found several old bricks embedded in the lane bearing the name Old Linthorpe.  A google search shows that these bricks were manufactured by a George Grubb Dalton, Brick Manufacturer, Builder & Contractor, Linthorpe, Middlesbrough, who is recorded in the London Gazette as giving Notice of Intended Dividends on the 13th November 1888.


Walking down to the Dales road


Old Linthorpe brick

We followed the dales road south to reach High House. TSB records that in this old farmhouse lived Harry Cooper who was reputed to be the tallest man in the world, standing at 8'6".  He left Scugdale to join Barnum's Circus in America and died in 1898 at the age of 41.

The house is currently unoccupied and its outbuildings falling into ruin.  Just beyond the house we turned right off the lane into fields at a dilapidated stile.  This part of the walk appears untrodden but there are guiding way-marks at field boundaries and we descended to reach and cross Scugdale Beck where we found (as on our previous visit) the old bridge that continues to serve no useful purpose, having been displaced by winter storms some years ago.  


High House

Dilapidated stile

Head down towards the trees and beck

Scugdale Beck

Unfortunately you have to cross the stream to reach the bridge!

We crossed the beck and climbed up a steep bank to join the faint path that took us down the valley, walking under old alum workings. When we reached some grassy banks just before Holiday House we stopped and enjoyed our coffee and scones looking across at Scugdale Hall.


Approaching Holiday House


Scugdale Hall through the mist.  From our coffee stop



After enjoying our coffee and scones we set off once more and almost immediately came upon a young black sheep, pressed against the fence and looking very sorry for itself.  It was covered in brambles which had wrapped around its haunches and back end so that any movement must have been very painful.  Clive spent ten minutes carefully removing the thorns and then as an treat, gave the grateful sheep an apple which it ate very gingerly, apparently having made its mouth sore pulling at the brambles.



Clive starts at the top..

.. and works his way along the sheep

The brambles had penetrated its wool

Ooh that's better..!

Enjoying an apple and looking much happier

Passing Holiday House we followed its long access track to the dale road, where we turned left and walked for a mile or so to reach the farm buildings of Fog Close.  Here we turned right into the farm's track at a footpath sign, and then right again before reaching the farm buildings, before turning left and walking up the side of the farm towards Live Moor.


Holiday House

Sheepdogs at Holiday House

Crow or magpie totem at Holiday House near game feeders

Back on the dale road..

... to reach Fog House Farm

After a steep climb to reach Live Moor we followed the escarpment with a misty view down into the charmingly named and little known valley of Snotterdale, to which there is no road or path access. 


Along the ridge of Live Moor

Snotterdale

Looking back to Scugdale


Opposite a conifer plantation the path turns left across Carlton Moor where we were soon walking on the old gliding station runway, before crossing to join the Cleveland Way/Coast to Coast walk that follows the ridge with spectacular views all the way to a trig point at 1338 feet.  


The mist comes down and the rain starts on the old glider runway

Passing a weather station on the Cleveland Way footpath

No views today but this was our view last time, from the Cleveland Way


We reach the trig point and a standing stone on Carlton Moor

Starting to descend...

.. and visibility improves slightly as we approach Lord Stones Cafe


From here we took the steep and stony path down to the road and then to the Lord Stones Cafe where we cheerfully repaid our parking debt by purchasing a couple of pints of Black Sheep Ale.



'It doesn't have to be fun to be fun!'









Friday 9 November 2018



Coomb Hill and Dale Town from Hawnby


6 miles                         Fine and chilly


Tom Scott Burns suggests parking on the grass verge in front of the church at Hawnby but nowadays this carries a risk of getting bogged down so we parked at the village hall and walked back to the church, adding a mile to TSB's 5 mile walk description.

We walked along the tarmac road to reach All Saints Church which is practically invisible among trees until you are almost on top of it.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills

Clive feeds the Honesty Box at the Village Hall

Hawnby, bottom village

We walk towards the church, hidden amongst trees, Coomb Hill ahead

All Saints Church, Hawnby

TSB explains that the church is basically a Norman structure, rebuilt in the late 14th century and restored in 1876 at a cost of £600, raised by subscription.   It was unlocked so Clive and I went in for a look around and to our surprise found volunteers busy cleaning which made us conscious of our boots on the swept floor.


With Remembrance Day approaching we were particularly  interested to see a newspaper cutting from 1924, showing the dedication of the war memorial window and another indicating the shocking number of men from Hawnby parish who were killed in WW1.


There is also a wreath to four German airmen who were killed in 1942 when their plane crashed on nearby Pepper Hill.


Altar window

Tragedy:  This window is dedicated to the three sons of William Hughes, the Rector of Hawnby, who were killed in action in 1917 and 1918

WWI window and wreath to German airmen

45 men! The tiny village must have suffered a loss in nearly every household

'All you who look upon this stone, Reflect how suddenly we were gone. Death does not always warning give, Therefore be careful how you live'

We left the church and walked down to Church Bridge where, immediately after crossing we turned sharp left, then right at an Inn Way sign and began our climb to Coomb Hill.


Church Bridge

We pause on Church Bridge...

... to look at the River Rye

Turn off the road immediately after the bridge

.. then right at the Inn Way sign

Pheasants abound on this walk

There were pheasants everywhere we looked and we were accompanied by their warning calls for the whole walk.  As we climbed Coomb Hill we saw a male pheasant preening its feathers, just a few feet from the path.  It made no attempt to fly away as I stopped and photographed it, until I walked off, then, posing over, it took to the air.


Hawnby Hill in the distance

On Coomb Hill


A spot of preening...

Going through his autumn moult

Having gained height we circumnavigated the hill, passing the ruins of two old buildings and dropping down to rejoin the same tarmac road we had left at Church Bridge.


The pheasant pen fence has been opened to allow the mature birds in and out


Sun shining through larches on Coomb Hill

Leaving the trees of Coomb Hill

A wide path descends to...

.. the Hawnby to Kepwick road

We walked along the road to reach Arden Hall, passing the entrance to what TSB describes as 'the small but eerie ravine of Stoney Gill Hole'.  


Stoney Gill Hole


After Arden Hall the tarmac peters out and the road becomes a track that climbs steeply for three quarters of a mile until reaching a disused quarry overlooking Thorodale Lake.


Soon after the quarry we reached the top of the hill and left the road to climb up the grass bank to Dale Town Common.  We sat on the bank with a fine view down to Thorodale Lake and to the right Hawnby Hill, and enjoyed our coffee and scones.

Arden Hall rooftops from the road

Hawnby Hill to the left of our road

Arden Hall

Thorodale Lake, TSB's 'wonderful view' now spoiled by saplings

Climbing onto Dale Town Common...

... where we sat for coffee looking back down Thorodale
After coffee we set off across Dale Town Common, which takes its name from the medieval lost village to the South East. There was a strong cold easterly wind blowing in our faces and we rapidly gained more height until we were looking down onto Hawnby and Easterside Hills.

At the first gate we came to a dyke that follows the line of a dry stone wall to the right, and we followed this wall.  Apparently the dyke dates from the late Bronze Age, 900 - 600BC, and it is thought that it and other similar dykes were constructed to define the limits of farming settlements.

Setting off across Dale Town Common

High Paradise in the distance to our right

Leaving the common at a gate on our left

Shortly after passing an old water tank we turned through a gate and walked across fields for a mile or so until we reached some old farm buildings where cattle were grazing.  They had churned the path making progress difficult but showed no interest in us as we passed them by. 


Too busy to acknowledge our presence

Approaching the old farm sheds

Cattle have chewed up the paths

... but watched placidly as we passed by

Just past the old barn the path goes through an area of tumuli and TSB explains that before the moorland was enclosed there was a group of about 20 tumuli here, only about 7 or 8 now remain. 

During the 1850s some excavation work was carried out and in one large mound, 40 - 50 feet diameter and 4 feet high, the skeleton of an Anglo Saxon lady of rank was found preserved in the limestone.  At her head was a bronze bowl with three handles, round her waist a leather girdle inlaid with garnets and her hair was secured with gold and silver.

Remains of tumuli

Our route now headed towards the perimeter of North Bank Wood before turning sharp left downhill at a sign just before Sunnybank Farm.   


We had a clear view of Hawnby top village from North Bank Wood

Approaching Sunnybank Farm

The sign points to 'Alternative clean route for dog owners and walkers'  We take it!

There was now a steep and occasionally tricky descent back down to the River Rye. There is no path as such but we followed the yellow way-marks at field edges and crossed a couple of rickety stiles to drop down to the river.

As we entered a field with Dalicar Bridge over the river ahead of us we noticed an old shed and two elderly tractors which we have seen slowly deteriorate over the years.  One of the tractors had been moved out of the shed and the other had a grass cutter attached, so both appeared to have been in use.

Further examination of the tractor in the shed showed that it was a petrol vehicle, and had just been fitted with new points and plugs.  It's good to know these 1950 tractors are still in use.

We take the (non-existent) 'clean route'

Follow the way-marks


We reach the River Rye

Fordson Diesel

Built in 1952 by Ford at Dagenham

Massey Ferguson petrol tractor with new plugs and coil

Not playing but examining!

We crossed the bridge to reach the road and the end of our walk.  The Inn at Hawby still has To Let signs on its walls so we drove to the Buck at Chop Gate to refresh ourselves and reflect on the day's walk.

Dalicar Bridge

To Short Walks!

We rarely do this walk as it is so short but it is still to be recommended at there is plenty to see.