The Lord Stones to Cringle Moor and Clough

6 miles                             Wet, then fine and cool

Heavy rain as we set off today so we decided to do one of Tom Scott Burns's shorter walks and drove to the Lord Stones Cafe where we parked with a clear conscience, knowing that we would give them our business on our return.

 

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

 

Tom Scott Burns explains that the Lord Stones Cafe takes its name from the Three Lords' Stones tumulus, which is situated immediately behind the cafe.  The modern name for this tumulus derives from the three estate boundaries held by the local land owning lords: Helmsley, Busby and Whorlton, which meet here.  The present owners have placed a few 'faux Lord stones' on the green ridge north of the cafe.

We walked past the cafe and turned right to climb up to the summit of Cringle Moor and to the stone memorial often called Falconer's Seat, named after Alec Falconer, who wrote the 'Wayfarer' column in the Saturday Evening Gazette in the 1950s.

There's a great view from this spot and the memorial's plaque points out all the surrounding features

Walking along Busby Moor

Looking back towards Lord Stones from the climb to Falconer's Seat

We reach Falconer's Seat Memorial

The view from Falconer's Seat

Leaving the memorial we walked on and after about 100 yards looked down onto a rock face where long ago, in more literate times, someone carved 'Tempus exploro omnis negotium'.  TSB says this roughly translates as "I'll try anything once and everything in time."  Hmm.  Google translates it as "Time solves all problems", which sounds more likely, though not as much fun.

Looking east from Falconer's Seat

Tempus exploro omnis negotium - Highbrow graffiti

On Cringle Moor

We walked east across the ridge and then negotiated the steep descent from Cringle Moor (from Cranimoor - circular moor) with care on the wet stones.  Below us we could see an empty Larson Trap, which when baited is used to catch magpies and crows who pass through the slots into the trap and cannot get out.  

Passing the old stone remains of Donna Cross we reached a new Cleveland Way sign with a pointer right signed 'Beak Hills', and here we turned right following the little walked right of way across grass.

Looking down at the Larson trap

Descending from Cringle Moor

The remains of Donna Cross

At the new sign, turn right for Beak Hills

No path at first...

... but soon becomes a farm track

The walk across a grassy field brought us to a path that changed from grass to stone as we progressed and eventually becomes tarmac.  TSB says this was an ancient pannier-man's trod, along which lime, fish, salt, jet and alum were once transported.  It now joins the farms of Beak Hills, Cold Moor Cote and Stone Intake to the Chop Gate to Carlton road.


Reaching Stone Intake Farm we turned right into a field at a sign just before the farm buildings, and descended across several fields as we dropped down to Raisdale Beck soon reaching the Chop Gate to Lords Stone road.  We followed the tarmac lane for a hundred yards or so before turning left into a drive leading to Raisdale Mill.

Approaching Beak Hills Farm

October 1st is long past and the pheasants are more wary...

Dropping through fields from Stone Intake Farm

Ornate hedge at Stone Intake Farm

Reaching the mill we sat at an old picnic table to enjoy our coffee in what had now become a sunny, though cool, afternoon.  

Buildings at Raisdale Mill

Green man at Raisdale Mill

Coffee and scones at Raisdale Mill

Some strange old decorations...

.. and several trees had fairies among the branches

We set off from the mill, across the fields alongside Raisdale Beck.  The grass was extremely wet after after this morning's heavy rain and we splodged along until we reached a conifer plantation and forestry path which made much easier walking.   We followed the forestry track until it crosses Raisdale Beck and swings sharply left.  At this point we turned right, following a yellow waymark sign into fields and the remains of the hamlet of Clough.

Raisdale Beck

Forestry path

The ruined buildings of Clough

Clough

The word Clough comes from the Anglo-Saxon for a valley with steep sides and is a rather sad spot with fairly extensive ruins showing that it was once a thriving community.  After Clough the path crosses several boggy, reedy fields.  There is no path as such but yellow waymarks indicate the way at every field boundary.  We continued straight ahead until we reached Staindale Farm where we were met enthusiastically by a young ram.   He careered towards us and then stood to be patted, obviously a pet.

  

Mine workings on Wath Hill opposite Staindale Farm

Staindale Farm appears in the distance

Someone rushes to see us

He's obviously a pet and....

... he looks just like the weather vane at Staindale Farm!

After Staindale Farm we continued following yellow way marks through fields soon reaching Thwaites House, and shortly after, the tarmac road almost adjacent to the Lords Stone Cafe.

We are watched with interest....

... as we walk through fields after Staindale Farm

Reaching Thwaites House

Pond at Thwaites House

This is a nice, short walk and ideal for a winter's day.

Ladhill Gill and Bumper Castle from 

Fangdale Beck 

 

 7.5 miles             Fine and sunny

We turned off the B1257 Bilsdale road and drove past the old green telephone box to the village of Fangdale Beck where we parked at the road side.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Walking through Fangdale Beck

Old Wesleyan Chapel, now a house

Tom Scott Burns tells us that Fangdale comes from the personal Scandinavian name Fangi or Fangulf, meaning 'Fangi's Valley'.

Leaving the car we crossed the beck by the little bridge and walked past the old Wesleyan Chapel, now converted into a private house.

A walk along a farm track brought us to a farm called Malkin Bower, which apparently means Matilda's or Maud's Dwelling.   We continued straight past the farm with the tarmac changing to a muddy grassy track.

Looking back to Fangdale Beck

Resident at Malkin Bower

Weather vane at Malkin Bower

Walking along the Bilsdale Valley

We followed the path along the valley of Bilsdale, parallel to the road below us.  The track dropped down to the River Seph before gently climbing up to Helm House where mechanical repairs are carried out to farm vehicles, as well as it being a working farm.  A couple of old tractors were out on display.

Approaching Helm House

Helm House Farm

His and her's!  Tractors at Helm House Farm

Stand-off!  A pheasant and a Blue Leicester sheep stare each other out at Helm Farm

Leaving Helm House we continued on a very muddy path across sheep fields before arriving at Benhill Bank Plantation where our track climbed steadily up to reach the moor gate.

A Texel ram between two Blue Leicesters

The cattle are in for the winter at Helm House Farm

Climbing through Benhill Bank Plantation

A short spell on tarmac brings us to the moor gate

We crossed the moor to look down on the remains of Bumper Castle.  Tom Scott Burns reports that the monks of Rievaulx wrought iron on Bumper Moor and there are old spoil heaps still to be seen dotted about on the moor.   

More Blue Leiecester Sheep near the moor gate

Hawnby Hill appears in the distance

Our path appears little walked

Looking across to Sportsman's Hall

... and among the trees is the ruin of Bumper Castle

We decided that today we would visit the ruins and made a bee-line through the dying bracken to reach the old building, which has all the appearance of a derelict farmhouse.  

No path to Bumper Castle

We approach the ruin

Bumper Castle

There appeared to be fire damage and the building is in an unsafe condition.  We looked around and headed back to our track.  I was interested to find out more about the ruin's original purpose and later made an internet search, which gave this:   

For a farm house Bumper Castle was well built with a slate roof which would have to have been imported into the dale. There's a date on the gable of 1722. It is said that in the 18c the 3rd Duke of Rutland and the Marquis of Granby stayed here for the shooting. So the house may have been built as a shooting lodge. 
From the Hawnby parish register in 1794 William Douglas, Bumper Castle, batchelor, 74, was buried "when there was the greatest depth of snow ever known in memory". In 1801 Samuel Tiplady was christened, son of Samuel (gamekeeper) and Dillery Tiplady, Bumper Castle. In 1811 William Mansell, gamekeeper to the Duke of Rutland, died at Bumper Castle aged 38.

From the mid 19c it seems to have been used as a farm. According to the 1851 census Richard Hilbert was farming 127 acres here. In 1881 and 91 Thomas Wrathall was resident. In 1920 Mrs. Clark, widow of Noah Clark was paying £25 rent.

TSB reports in The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills that Bumper Castle was owned by George Villiers, the notorious second Duke of Buckingham, who, when he died in 1687, had squandered £50,000 a year and had become an outcast from society.  There is no record of him actually visiting the building however.

Satisfied that we had seen all there was to see at Bumper Castle we set off along a muddy track to eventually rejoin our original path, which we followed down to Ladhill Gill Beck.  Just before the bridge over the beck we saw a large flat stone in the sun and out of the wind, and sat to enjoy our coffee and scones.

Walking to rejoin our path...

... we come to obvious workings.  Did the monks of Reivaulx dig here?

The bridge over Ladhill Beck

Clive discovers a nice, flat 'table'.

Ladhill Gill

We crossed the bridge and climbed steeply up the opposite side of the valley, turning left to join a track that led us above Sportsmans Hall.  TSB suggests that this name probably has something to do with Bumper Castle and the Duke's sporting pastimes.

We walked towards the Hawnby road and turned right along a vehicle access track at the moor gate.   The track divides twice and on each occasion we took the right fork, heading towards Bilsdale mast.

Sportsmans Hall

Looking back at Easterside Hill and Hawnby Hill

Keep right!

Eventually the path struck off faintly across the moor.  We lost sight of the track occasionally but it didn't matter, we knew we had to head east to cross the upper reaches of Ladhill Gill, where it joins with Wetherhouse Beck.  Here the route is indicated by a row of wooden stakes showing the location of some shooting butts. 

In one of the shooting butts we saw the remains of a hedgehog. This new style of shooting butt where the shooter steps down into a wood paneled 'box' seems deadly to small wildlife, which fall in and can't get out.  Time and again we have seen dead rabbits, toads, mice etc, surely some sort of escape ramp could be built in?

Trapped!

Upper reaches of Ladhill Gill

Passing through the moor gate

This part of the walk is a bit hit and miss, the moor track being either non-existent or overgrown, but eventually we reached the shooting butts and we turned left to follow their line down towards the moor gate.

We went through the moor gate and by some old quarries and then descended via the usual hollow way to emerge at Malkin Bower where we turned left to return to Fangdale and our car.

Passing an old quarry

Hollow way to Fangdale

Malkin Bower ahead

On the B1257 just opposite the Fangdale turn-off is the Church of St John which must have been built to serve the upper Bilsdale valley, including Fangdale.  We decided it was time we paid it a visit and were delighted to find it unlocked.  

We liked the ploughman motif 

The Church of St John, Bilsdale

Clive examines the WW1 War Memorial

Looking towards the altar, we admired the barreled roof

The altar window

Looking towards the rear of the church

Why, we wondered?

The church was built by Temple Moor between 1896-98 and so there are few gravestones of interest.  There is a fine war memorial dedicated to the men of Bilsdale who died in WW1.

There is an excellent internet page on the church here.

We left the church and retired to the Bay Horse in Great Broughton to discuss an interesting and enjoyable walk.