"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday, 17 September 2021

Caydale and Noddle End from Murton

 



7.5 miles                           Sunny and warm



We drove to Murton Grange taking the Laskill turn-off from the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley road and parked on the verge near to the white buildings of the Grange.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills

Murton Grange


Tom Scott Burns explains that a 'grange' was a farmhouse attached to a religious order and Murton Grange once belonged to the monks of nearby Byland Abbey. 

We walked past the Grange and continued straight ahead until arriving at a fork, the main lane going on to Caydale Mill but we took the right fork down into the hidden valley of Caydale.  Tom Scott Burns tells us that at this spot the last wild cat in England was shot in 1840, by a Charles Harrison. 

Walking towards Caydale

Leave the lane by the right fork

.. and walk on towards the valley of Caydale

The sheltered valley of Caydale

We reached the bottom of the valley and crossed several streams of crystal clear water, known as 'rills'.  These are 
shown on the map above as Old Byland's Water Race and Limperdale Gill.  In the 1740s a Joseph Ford of Kirbymoorside perfected a system of tapping into springs and channeling water in open 'rills' some 12 inches wide.  Water was diverted by this method through Caydale from King Spring to the village of Old Byland and the straight rills remain.  

Caydale bottom

One of the 'rills'

We are distracted in Caydale by a buzzard being mobbed by crows

Another buzzard appears and the crows move off..


We crossed the valley floor and started up the other side.  Until a couple of years ago this climb was through trees but all vegetation has been removed and the area converted to rough grazing meadow.

A consequence of this clearing has been the removal of the old 'Captain's Seat' which is shown on the map above, and which we used to pass by, although in a dilapidated state. We would like to know who the Captain was and why he would sit at such a remote spot.

Leaving the climb and Caydale we crossed several fields to reach the tarmac of High Leir Lane where we turned right and walked through shimmering heat to pass Weathercote Farm with its novel 'cat and rat' weather vane.

Looking back across Caydale at Murton Grange on the horizon

High Leir Lane

A collared dove acts as referee on the weather vane...

... at Weathercote Farm

After a mile we reached the junction with Cleveland Road which we crossed to follow field paths again, until reaching the high ridge of Boltby Scar.  We were ready for refreshment by this time and we followed the ridge to the old quarry workings where we sat with a magnificent view over Boltby and enjoyed our coffee and scones in a slight and very welcome breeze.

Pheasants lead us towards Boltby Scar.  Safe until October 1st!

We reach the ridge and the Cleveland Way and bear left

Boltby Village below


High Barn appears in the distance

Remains of old fort and quarry.... and coffee stop

We set off and walked towards the Old Barn, walking straight past it following the Cleveland Way. 
We crossed Sneck Yate Bank Road, opening the gate for a couple of cyclists, and continued along a forest path to High Paradise Farm, which now has a tea room in the summer months.  Although it was nearly 30 minutes since we had our coffee break we showed amazing will power and walked on past walkers enjoying their coffee at the farm cafe, soon reaching the gate with the old drovers' road, Hambleton Road. 

Passing Old Barn




Low Paradise left and High Paradise Farm to the right



Entering Boltby Forest


High Paradise Farm and tearoom


Walking towards Hambleton Road

Crossing Hambleton Road towards Daletown Common

Daletown Common

Two of the sheep had red horns, we wondered what that signifies


At Hambleton Road we crossed straight over and walked onto Daletown Common where we continued for about two miles towards the old ruined barn at Noddle End.   As we walked we passed several freshly dead partridges and saw a large group of beaters being collected by transport on the road ahead.  Partridge season is 1st September to 1st February so they are 'fair game' at the moment.

Fresh partridge

Beaters being collected

The dogs must have missed these..


When we reached the barn we paused to enjoy a pleasant view into Gowerdale, before following the path down to reach the ruined farm of Gowerdale House.   Looking across towards Murton Bank we could see my car and a line of shooters' vehicles approaching it from Gowerdale, probably on their way for refreshments after the shoot.


Approaching Noddle End

The disused barn at Noddle End

My zoom lens shows the shooters approaching my white car


The path now leads steeply downhill to a single deserted farmstead, Gowerdale House. 

In his 'Round and About the North Yorkshire Moors, Vol. 2' Tom Scott Burns tells us that Gowerdale House is all that remains of a medieval village, called Dal in the Domesday Book, and Daile a century later. By 1433 there were 23 tenants recorded as living in Daletown but by 1569 in Humberston's Survey the entry was 'vocatum Dale Town'. Was the village wiped out by the Black Death?



Starting to descend into Gowerdale

Gowerdale House


Dozens of partridges take to the air 


We reach the bottom of the valley and Gowerdale House

A partridge watches us pass by Gowerdale House

The message, now hidden, says "Look around and Get Out!"


We passed the front of the house which has the bleak message, "Look around and get out!" painted on the front door, and then followed a rising path to reach Dale Town Farm.


Dale Town Farm

We turned right into a cow field just after passing the farm buildings and followed the faint path steeply uphill to the top of Peak Scar Top where we turned left to reach Murton Bank Road and the car.

Reaching the car we looked down on the village of Hawnby and its pub, The Owl.  We were soon seated in the pub garden enjoying a pint and discussing today's walk.

Climbing to Peak Scar Top

Hawnby below

Hawnby Hill and Easterside Hill from Murton Bank

A pleasant end to our walk at The Owl at Hawnby
















Saturday, 28 August 2021

 


Boltby to Gormire Lake and Whitestone Cliff


7 miles                  Occasional drizzle


We reached Boltby from the A19 Knayton turn off and drove right through the village and up a steep hill to the small designated car park at the side of the road. Unfortunately a sign informed us that the car park was out of use as lorries were using it to turn around so we returned into Boltby and parked at the side of the road, near to the church.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills


We walked back up the high street and took the first right into a lane.
Tom Scott Burns explains that Boltby is of great antiquity and is mentioned in the Domesday Book as the property of Hugh, son of Baldric.

We walked up the lane past the last of the houses and went through a gate to follow a faint track over the shoulder of Little Moor to drop down to Greendale Farm.

Passing the old packhorse bridge as we walk through Boltby

Years ago when we first did this walk these two dogs were alive and playing in the garden

Attractive house in Boltby


Following the lane out of the village


After circumnavigating Cow Pasture Wood we dropped down to Greendale Farm and followed the path around the side of a hill to reach Tang Hall Farm where the way turns left just before the buildings to enter fields.

Crossing Boltby Beck..

.. and walking towards Cow Pasture Wood

In Cow Pasture Wood

Looking down on Greendale Farm

Pass to the right of the farm..

... and follow the lane to Tang Hall Farm

Follow the path to the left of the farm buildings into fields


After crossing a large field we joined a stony bridleway, once an old coach road, which crosses Huggon Howl to Southwoods Hall.  Southwoods Hall is a very grand place which was once the real home of Seigfried Farnon (real name Donald Sinclair) from the James Herriot books.  Sinclair married into money, his wife Audrey Adamson came from a wealthy shipbuilding family and it was her money that bought their home.  Strangely TSB doesn't mention James Herriot in any of his guides.


Southwoods Hall is almost hidden by trees

Crossing Huggon Howl towards Southwoods Hall

The hall is hidden from view by trees to our left

We pass the south gate to the hall



We were kept to the bridleway across Huggon Howl by new fencing that stretched past the hall to reach the trees at Midge Hole Gate and the gated south entrance to the hall.  We now turned into South Woods on a forest path which we followed to reach Southwoods Lodge.

South Woods


Southwoods Lodge



On reaching the lodge we followed the track straight ahead through Garbutt Wood, eventually reaching Gormire Lake where we sat by the water's edge and had a peaceful break enjoying our coffee and scones. This lake is featured in the introduction to 'The Yorkshire Vet' on TV.

I think it is worth mentioning again that in 2018 we saw a Golden Pheasant in the trees of Garbutt Wood.  There are only about 100 breeding pairs in the country and they are notoriously secretive so we were very pleased with ourselves but I was less pleased with my photos which were not of the best quality!

Garbutt Wood

We reach the lake

The water was very green today, perhaps algae bloom?

"What is this life if full of care......"

Golden Pheasant in 2018



There are two terraces around Gormire and TSB explains that these were once shorelines when the lake was much deeper.  It is often described as bottomless but is actually about 27 feet deep in the centre and covers about twenty six acres.  Tradition has it that a town stood here which was destroyed in an earthquake, but the lake is actually the result of a glacial overflow channel being blocked by a landslip, hence its position up a hillside.  No streams flow from it and its waters are mainly supplied by rain and diminish with evaporation.  A major landslip happened here on the 25th March 1755 which was described by Rev John Wesley as 'like many cannons or rolling thunder'.

Finally it was time to go and leaving the lake we climbed straight up through Garbutt Wood to reach Sutton Brow.  This is a steep half mile diagonally up the side of the bank with views to the south across Happy Valley to Hood Hill Plantation.  Reaching the top there is a fine view down to Gormire Lake and over towards Roulston Scar.  After catching our breath we set off past Whitestone Cliff, still enjoying James Herriot's "best view in England" from various vantage points.

The steep climb begins

Happy Valley and Hood Hill in the distance

Roulston Scar

Gormire

We start the ridge walk

A last view of Gormire

We play 'name that village'


We now had a three mile walk along the ridge, passing the remains of several tumuli to our right and all the time with fine views to the left over Thirlby and then Boltby.

Eventually we passed by the remains of an old hill fort and quarry and reached the derelict High Barn where we left the ridge at a sign, turning left to descend towards Boltby.


Boltby

High Barn in the distance


There has been a collapse among the outbuildings since our last visit

The old quarry and fort from the barn

Tom Scott Burns explains that the fort above originally had a D-shaped rampart enclosing three acres.  Gold earrings from the early Bronze Age have been unearthed, along with pottery from an earlier culture, probably Neolithic.

A steep downhill took us past Hesketh Grange Farm, over a couple of bridges and then steeply back uphill, towards Boltby and TSB's 'official' car park.  We had to turn left and walk downhill back through the village to the car.

A steep descent from the ridge

Crossing Boltby Beck again

We emerge where we 'should' have been parked

We approve of this sign!

Entering Boltby Village

Hikers can be sure of a warm welcome in Boltby!

There is no pub in Boltby so we made the short drive to Osmotherley for our post walk pint, passing, as we did so, some interesting roadside figures in Knayton.

Richard Branson in Knayton

Not sure who this is!

A nice walk and worth doing for the views of Gormire alone!