Hasty Bank, Cold Moor and Upper Bilsdale

 8 miles                         Mostly sunny and warm

We thought it would be nice to choose a moors walk today as by now the heather should be in full bloom.  

We parked at the top of Clay Bank and crossed the road to climb Hasty Bank, but instead of following the Cleveland Way to the top, we branched left on a small track that winds its way upwards to reach the Old Quarry, shown on the map below.

Today's route from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Small track through tall bracken

The reason for this diversion was that we wanted to pay our respects to 'The Lady of Bilsdale', described by Tom Scott Burns  as 'the enigmatic face of a lady carved on a rock wall who gazes eternally down into Bilsdale'. This ancient stone face was carved into the side of the Old Quarry, perhaps by one of the workers.  The track led us up and around Hasty Bank and at the top we came to the quarry on our right and walked over to admire the Lady and share her view of Bilsdale.

Walking up the side of Hasty Bank

Fine views of Bilsdale

Two faces gaze down at us today!

The Lady of Bilsdale

Looking down to Garfitts Gap from the disused quarry

Leaving the Lady we walked across the moor top to reach the Wainstones, where we picked our way carefully through the rocks before descending into Garfitts Gap and climbing onto Cold Moor.   TSB says that the name Wainstones is believed to derive from the Saxon 'wanian' - to howl, and that the naming of the stones means 'stones of lamentation'.   TSB mentions that his favourite graffitti to be found on the Wainstones is 'RO WOOING TD 1712' but we have yet to come across it.

Approaching the Wainstones

The Wainstones

The path takes us through the lower stones

Today's view from the Wainstones

We walked along the summit of Cold Moor (1318') for 2.5 miles with a fine view as far as the Pennines over to the west and Roseberry Topping and Easby Moor to the east.  We were now walking in fine purple heather and every time our boots knocked a bloom clouds of pollen would puff up.  The smell was very heady and bees droned all around.

Turn left at this sign and follow small track to top of Cold Moor

Nearly at the top

Looking back towards The Wainstones

Walking along the ridge of Cold Moor

Eventually we took a clear fork to the left, taking us gently down to the village of Chop Gate.  This track is known as Cold Moor Lane and we passed through a gate where the path becomes a hollow lane.  TSB says that it is possible that this passageway was established by prehistoric man and has continued in use throughout history to the present day.  Although today's weather is warm and sunny, heavy rain during the last few days has made the hollow lane very muddy.

Left onto this track to descend towards Chop Gate

Seave Green and Bilsdale Hall at 9 o'clock

The gate leads to the hollow lane...

... which is muddy from recent rain

We soon reached Chop Gate where we emerged at the old Wesleyan Chapel that is almost hidden between houses. The reason for the strange location of the chapel is that the landowner, Lord Feversham, was C of E and totally against a non-conformist church being established in the dale.  However a local shop keeper sold the Methodists this plot of land and the chapel was built in 1858.  TSB reports that it contains an interesting harmonium (pump organ) but its doors were firmly locked today.  Last time we passed this way the chapel was for sale but the sale does not appear to have taken place.

The rear of the Methodist chapel

Wesleyan Chapel

TSB says that the name Chop Gate is thought to be derived from the old Scandinavian term kaup meaning pedlar and with a number of pannier tracks converging on the village it must have been like a market place in times gone by.

We turned left into the B1257 and walked along to Seave Green whose name is thought to derive from its owner in 1301, Nicholas del Seves.  Here we crossed the road to the tarmac track to Bilsdale Hall.   On the left we passed Chisel Hill Mill which ceased operation in 1930 and later became a recording studio that was used by Chris Rea in the 1980s. The studio's name became the subject of one of his songs, Chisel Hill, which some people mistakenly think refers to Roseberry Topping.  See here.

Walking towards Seave Green

Chisel Hill Mill

Bilsdale Hall

In the past we have stopped on this lane near to Bilsdale Hall for our coffee but today, for the first time, we noticed a sign pointing towards St Hilda's church further along the lane and we decided to leave our route briefly to have a closer look.  A walk of less than 5 minutes brought us to the attractive church which was rebuilt in 1851 in the shape and style of the original church.  

Arriving at St Hilda's Church

Unfortunately the church was locked so we sat in the sun for a while and enjoyed our coffee and scones before exploring the graveyard.  There were some ancient stones, many with interesting though maudlin verses, but years of grass-strimming had caked a green deposit on the stones making the inscriptions very hard to read.  Next time we'll have to bring some water and a scrubbing brush!

"Is yon self timer working?"  "Dunno, give it another two minutes...."

Frustratingly difficult to read...

"No wrongs shall ever harm them more, Their (sic) gone into the peaceful shore, Where pain is not."

"A daughter wife and mother sleeps below, how many ties were severed with one blow, wives daughters mothers all ye mortals see, how scant the term of human life may be, live a true life and death in vain will call, who lives in Jesus will not die at all"

"Beware dear friends and weep not here, Here must I lie Till Christ appear, And in his coming hope to have, A joyful rising from the grave"

"Sleep on blest creature in thy urn, Our sobs and tears cannot awake thee, Weel (sic) stay until it be our turn"

We wandered back to Baysdale Hall and TSB's route and began the steep climb up to follow the alternative dotted path on the map above, going steeply uphill to reach Urra Moor. 

Climbing towards Urra Moor

Looking back towards Seave Green

We reach the moor gate

Climbing to reach ancient earthworks

After pausing to admire the view and regain our breath we turned left and followed the ridge, with a succession of sweeping views of Bilsdale below us.  As well as being on the ridge of the moor we also noticed we were walking alongside the remains of an earthworks.  This earthworks stretches for 2.5 miles and its origin is forgotten, perhaps defensive, or it may have been an animal enclosure. It was known as Cliff Dyke, and a couple of centuries ago as Cromwell's Lines.

TSB mentions two witches who inhabited Bilsdale's moors, Peg Humphreys and her companion Alice Wood, who was said to take the form of a cat or hare. 

Following the ridge and earthworks along Urra Moor

Approaching Maiden Spring

Boggy crossing at Maiden Spring

We followed the earthworks and eventually came to a little valley where we crossed a stream known as Maiden Spring, at 1300'.  The track and surrounding ground were very boggy at this point.


Leaving the beck we continued to follow the earthworks until we rejoined the Cleveland Way track on Carr Ridge.  We turned left and walked steeply down to Haggs Gate where we rejoined the main road for a few yards taking us back to Clay Bank Car Park and our car.

Walking back to the ridge, Maiden Spring to our left

In the distance, the Wainstones to our right and climb to Cold Moor to theleft

Our path down to Hagg's Gate