"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday, 6 December 2019



The Rosedale Railway and Botton Head from Ingleby Greenhow


 8.5 miles                                Dry but cold wind



We parked in Ingleby Greenhow in the overflow car park for the Dudley Arms and walked back to the main road in the direction of Kildale. 

Tom Scott Burns notes in his Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills that the name Ingleby has been written in various ways over the years, including Angleby, Engelbi, Yngleby and Yngylby.

The route parts from the road alongside a newly built house where we followed an overgrown path onto meadows.  Over to the right we could see Ingleby Manor which is now holiday accommodation.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills


Walking through Ingleby Greenhow

Look for the footpath sign and turn right....

... into a narrow path between houses

Walking towards Bank Foot Farm

Ingleby Manor

We soon reached Bank Foot Farm, situated under Turkey Nab which is probably derived from the old personal name Thorlkil.   Tom Scott Burns says in the Walker's Guide that in 1729 William Parkin was hung from gallows mounted on Turkey Nab for murdering his brother-in-law at Great Broughton, but our plan was to see Mary Ross's Seat, described by TSB as being at grid reference 594055.

TSB says that Lady Mary Ross was the eldest daughter of the Earl of Kildare and her daughter had married Sir William Foulis of Ingleby Manor.  The seat may have been constructed on one of Lady Mary's favourite walks when visiting her daughter and son-in-law.  

The seat is situated on the forest track running about 100 metres behind and parallel with our route and after seeing it one can cut back through the trees to rejoin the 'official' path.

Bank Foot Farm 
Weather vane appears to have been a target!



Lady Mary Ross's Seat


Leaving Lady Ross's Seat we returned to the old railway bed which we followed past a row of railway cottages to reach the incline bottom where we paused to read a new information board.


Railway cottages

Weather vane at railway cottages

'Is that a new information board?'

We pause to read the board






Tom Scott Burns tells us that the old railway was completed in 1861 and leads to the foot of the incline bank where the trains were loaded with ironstone.  The incline reaches a maximum gradient of 1 in 5 and a brake drum house was situated at the top.  Three empty wagons were hauled by steel ropes as three loaded wagons descended, an operation which took 3 minutes at a speed of 20mph, regulated by the drum house.    

Leaving the new sign we started our long climb up the old incline railway.  We climbed steadily and passed by some old graffiti of a man wearing a stovepipe hat with a bird in front of his face.  TSB suggests that this is a satirical caricature carved by a railway navvy in a moment of inactivity.  

Reaching the top we found a sheltered spot to enjoy our coffee and scones out of the biting wind.



A long climb..


Old mine workings over to our right

Clive pauses to admire the graffitti

Stovepipe hat and bird

Out of the wind

The view back down the incline

At the top of the incline was another new information board and a table top which should have featured a model of the old railway, but this was missing.







Site of the old drum house

We continued along the old railway line, pausing to take a look at the huge stone blocks and bits of old iron work that once were part of the drum house which was dismantled in 1941.  We followed the railway bed which officially closed on 13th June 1929 and now makes a nice 11 mile path to Farndale, Westerdale and Rosedale.  Turning off the railway at a broad track we joined a trail to Cockayne Head and Botton Head, which is also part of the Cleveland Way.  


We join the Cleveland Way


Too windy to fly away

As we walked this trail we came to two old boundary posts, the first known as The Face Stone is mentioned in a 1642 document for the Helmsley Estate, and the second showing a carved hand near to Round Hill dates from 1711.  Near the Hand Stone is the trig point at Botton Howe which is located on a Bronze Age burial mound at 1490 feet, the highest point on the North York Moors.


The Face Stone

The Hand Stone

Hand Stone

Trig Point at Botton Howe

We walked back to the wide path and continued walking across Urra Moor, which according to TSB derives from the Old English 'horh' meaning 'filth'!   Eventually we came to a new signpost where we left the Cleveland Way and bore right on an indistinct path which drops off the moor down Jackson's Bank and into Greenhow Plantation.


Bear right at the junction

Looking across to the Wainstones

Turn right at this new sign

We reached the lane down Greenhow Bottoms and over to the right we could see the incline railway while ahead of us Roseberry Topping appeared in the distance.  A mile or so on and several farms further, the tarmac lane took us to Low Farm.


The Incline Railway from Jackson's Bank

Jackson's Bank

Walking through Greenhow Plantation

A fine ram

"Where've you gone, I can't see you!"

"I'm a fine ram too."

"And me!"
Our path turned left just before the farm buildings of Low Farm, into fields which we crossed one after another, at first following a newly fenced path but later the unseen rights of way by aiming for the yellow right of way signs on each field boundary.  

Eventually we reached the bridge over Ingleby Beck and we crossed into the churchyard of St Andrew's beyond it.  The church was unlocked and we enjoyed a browse around the ancient building. TSB says that the original church was granted to the abbots of Whitby in 1143 by Adam de Ingelby and still retains traces of Norman work. We liked the pigs carved onto stone pillars near the altar and the fine stained glass window. 


Weather vane at Low Farm

Low Farm

New path

Bridge over Ingleby Beck

St Andrew's Church
St Andrew's

A priest (Willimus Wrelton, incumbent c.1300)

...and a knight  (probably C15)...



Pig?



We both agree that this walk of TSB's is very enjoyable, with a bit of everything; hills, moors, farms and woods, and we were soon discussing its finer points over a well earned pint.

To Siberia!



Friday, 15 November 2019



Exploring Scugdale from Carlton Bank




7 miles           Cold and dull, but dry



We drove up Carlton Bank to the Lord Stones Cafe and parked in their car park, knowing that we would repay their hospitality on our return.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Clevelaand Hills

After booting up we walked back along the Carlton road for a few yards until we reached a new Cleveland Way sign. Here we turned left off the road and almost immediately turned right off the Cleveland Way to follow the wide access road for the old Gliding Club (now demolished) steadily uphill.

Turn left at the wooden Cleveland Way sign

Following the old glider club track uphill

We are saluted by geese as we start to climb



Reaching the moor top we turned left off the access road where a footpath sign indicated our track across the heather.  The first feature one comes to on this path is the rocky outcrop of Stone Ruck.  Tom Scott Burns explains that Ruck is derived from the Old Norse bruga meaning 'to pile or heap up', as in a cairn.  




Looking left as we climb towards Cringle Moor


Wet tracks after recent heavy rain

Stone Ruck


We followed the path for a mile or so across the moor until we came to Brian's Pond which looked dark and uninviting.  There was no sign of life in th pond so we continued on our way climbing steadily over Clough Gill Top, where a signpost indicates a choice of routes.

Brian's Pond


Go right at the sign just after the pond

We took the right fork that ascends steadily to the moor rim where we suddenly came upon the valley of Scugdale.   To our right were the rocks of Barker's Crags and below us the buildings of Scugdale Hall.

Left is Holiday House and centre is Scugdale Hall

Panarama showing the whole of Scugdale
Barker's Crags

TSB refers to Scugdale as 'the sheltered dale' from the Danish skygger - to overshadow.  

We descended across a couple of fields to reach the dale road where we turned left to walk towards the top of the valley and High House.   Over the years the dales road has been strengthened with stones, tarmac,  pottery and bricks and we found several old bricks embedded in the lane bearing the name Old Linthorpe.  


We saw several Linthorpe bricks embedded in the road surface


A google search shows that these bricks were manufactured by a George Grubb Dalton, Brick Manufacturer, Builder & Contractor, Linthorpe, Middlesbrough, who is recorded in the London Gazette as giving Notice of Intended Dividends on the 13th November 1888.

Descending into the dale...

... to reach the Dale Road that runs from here to Swainby



We followed the dales road south to reach High House. TSB records that in this old farmhouse lived Harry Cooper who was reputed to be the tallest man in the world, standing at 8'6".  He left Scugdale to join Barnum's Circus in America and died in 1898 at the age of 41.


The house is currently unoccupied and its outbuildings falling into ruin.  Just beyond the house we turned right off the lane into fields at a dilapidated stile.  This part of the walk appears untrodden but there are guiding way-marks at field boundaries and we descended to reach and cross Scugdale Beck where we found (as on our previous visit) the old bridge that continues to serve no useful purpose, having been displaced by winter storms some years ago. 


Approaching High House

Unoccupied but by no means a ruin

Over the stile at High House...

Spoil heaps at the head of Scugdale

Descending to Scugdale Beck


We have to cross the beck to reach the bridge!

After crossing the beck we climbed up a steep bank to join the faint path that took us down the valley of Scugdale, walking under old alum workings. When we reached some sheltered grassy banks just before Holiday House Farm we stopped and enjoyed our coffee and scones looking across at Scugdale Hall.

Walking westwards along the valley

Holiday House comes into view

Barker's Crag and Scugdale Hall from our coffee stop

Holiday House was shown on 1940's maps as such. It seems a strange name and we would like to know why it is so called.


We get a noisy reception as we pass the rear of the farm

Hardy looking calves 

Holiday House Farm

Passing Holiday House we followed its long access track to the dale road, where we turned left and walked for a mile or so to reach the farm buildings of Fog Close.  Here we turned right into the farm's track although we didn't see the footpath sign, and then right again through a gate, also unsigned, before reaching the farm buildings. Here we turning left and walking up the side of the farm towards Live Moor we came upon a waymark at last.


Following the farm track westwards

We are led by a trio of escapees from a nearby field

There used to be a footpath sign here!

And there was once another on this gate..

After a steep climb to reach Live Moor we followed the escarpment with a misty view down into the charmingly named and little known valley of Snotterdale, to which there is no road or path access. 


Looking back to Scugdale from Fog Close Farm

Snotterdale

A waymark at last! Climbing to Live Moor

Nearly at Live Moor

Panorama of Snotterdale


Opposite a conifer plantation the path turns left across Carlton Moor where we were soon walking on the old gliding station runway, before crossing to join the Cleveland Way/Coast to Coast walk that follows the ridge with spectacular views all the way to a trig point at 1338 feet.  


Low flying RAF plane buzzes us on Live Moor


Bear left off the main track to climb to Carlton Moor


The old glider club runway


Fine view of Whorl Hill and Faceby from the Cleveland Way


Follow the Cleveland Way along the ridge


We followed the Cleveland Way into a bitter north easterly wind and soon caught up with a lone hiker carrying a big pack.  He told us he was walking the Cleveland Way and didn't know where he would lay his head tonight.  We were full of admiration but pleased we didn't have to do it!



A rain squall, hope it misses us..


Lone Cleveland Way walker


Weather station on Carlton Moor


Carlton village below
On reaching the trig point we took the steep and stony path down to the road and then, after de-booting, to the Lord Stones Cafe where we cheerfully repaid our parking debt by purchasing a couple of pints of Black Sheep Ale.



Trig point and boundary stone


Descending to the Lords Stone cafe