Bank Foot to Upper Baysdale 

and Burton Howe

11 miles                                         Sunny and warm

We decided on a longer walk today, taken from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills by Tom Scott Burns.  We parked at the road side near to Bank Foot Farm, which is approached from the unclassified road between Ingleby Greenhow and Battersby.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Bank Foot Farm

Tom Scott Burns relates a grisly event that occurred here on 3rd October 1924.  Frank Ward, who lived in one of the railway cottages on the incline, failed to return home after an evening of drinking at the Dudley Arms in Ingleby Greenhow.  His daughter Hannah and a neighbour called Medd Carpenter made a search and followed a trail of blood to a haystack at Bank Foot where Frank's body was found partially concealed.  Later that morning the police found Frank's best friend Jerry Dalton, who lived in a cottage near Bank Foot Farm, slumped in a ditch with self inflicted throat wounds.  He was subsequently convicted of the murder of his friend and hanged for his crime. 


We walked past the farm and immediately started to climb the rutted forestry path towards Turkey Nab noticing a few signs warning against the use of unauthorised 'off road' vehicles.

Forestry track to Turkey Nab

Old information board at Turkey Nab

On reaching the top we paused to admire the view and get our breath back.  There are fine views over Ingleby Greenhow and Battersby Junction and we picked out familiar land marks before passing a chain and following a moor path onto Ingleby Moor

Battersby Junction from Turkey Nab

Step over the chain to follow the moor path

The view east from Turkey Nab

Just beyond the Nab we turned left onto a smaller track that leads across Ingleby Moor, crossing Black Beck about a mile further on before a slight climb to bear left onto Middle Head Road.   The heather is now at its finest and there was a tremendously strong smell of pollen.  Bees and other insects were everywhere but not interested in us.

Starting to cross Ingleby Moor

Through walls of heather

This year's display is the best we've seen

Descending to Black Beck 

Shortly after crossing Black Beck we came to an interesting group of large boulders known as the Cheese Stones, a good vantage point for looking down into Baysdale.  We walked over to have a better view. 

The Cheese Stones

 B Close has added his name to Maurice's in 1952

Looking towards Baysdale from the Cheese Stones

More of Maurice's graffiti by the look of it, though neatly done!

Continuing along the moor we came to the remains of a medieval cross and a little more walking found us looking down onto the imposing building of Baysdale Abbey Farm.  

Remains of old cross

Abbey Farm in the distance

We walked down through to reach a gate into Intake Plantation and were soon walking through the trees to reach a fine view down to Baysdale Abbey.  We found a comfortable mound of grass to sit on and enjoy our coffee and scones in the sun.

 

Intake Plantation

A fine view to Baysdale Abbey and beyond

Time for a coffee break

We finished our coffee and walked down to the Abbey and its farm buildings. 

Baysdale Abbey, west side

Baysdale Abbey, east side

Tom Scott Burns explains that in the middle ages land rents for Baysdale were paid with the heads of wolves, which were numerous in the area, and one can imagine this wild enclosed ravine in the 1300s, when cattle were over-wintered in the valley bottom.  In fact, TSB explains, Baysdale is derived from Basdale meaning Cow Shed Valley.  The Abbey Farm has been renovated and is now marketed as holiday lets and we walked round the building, then followed the yellow way-marks uphill to Thorntree House.

Approaching Thorntree House

Thorntree House

We passed Thorntree House and climbed through the plantation to reach Baysdale Moor and as TSB relates, " an ever-unfolding sea of moorland".  Purple heather was to be seen in every direction and the smell of its pollen was very heady.  We followed the moorland track for about 1.5 miles, turning right just before reaching an old stone shooting box.  Considering the season we saw very few grouse and wondered if there has been a problem with bird numbers this year.

A sea of purple heather in every direction

Looking back towards Baysdale

We walked on from the shooting box and our path eventually led us down through the old disused coal pits of Armouth Wath, ('ford at becks' meeting') and across Grain Beck.  

Approaching Armouth Wath

Armouth Wath

Rowantree Beck at Armouth Wath

Armouth Wath is a very bleak spot and life in the coal pits must have been hard.  We had a look at what remained and the two becks the name refers to, Rowantree Beck and Black Hagg Beck.  Excavation work has been done at the ruins of the four collier buildings and revealed that the pits were 106' deep.

We left following the colliers' track and a long climb brought us to the Bronze Age tumulus of Burton Howe.

Burton Howe

Burton Howe tumulus

Signs of mineral excavation looking from Burton Howe

There are several tumuli here, apparently dating from 4500 - 1400 BC, some still containing coffins and cremated remains. 

Our path now followed the escarpment across the open land of Ingleby Moor, locally known as Siberia, and devoid of interest until we came to a well preserved standing stone near Tidy Brown Hill.  We could make out the inscription 'Ingleby and Stoxley' on the front, ' Kirby and Helmsley 1757' on one side and 'Guis Boro' on the other and we were pleased to see that tradition has been maintained and a few coins had been left under a loose top stone for the benefit of any needy person who happens by.  Strangely, TSB doesn't mention this stone in his walk description.

Ingleby and Stoxley, and hand pointer

Kirby and Helmsley 1757

Coins for the needy!

We now had a two mile walk along the escarpment with fine views, purple heather to our right and the villages of Cleveland below us to the left.  We were so immersed in this amazing view that it was some time before we we became aware of a rumbling noise and found ourselves slowly overhauled by a group of off road vehicles. They trundled past us and then as the going got tougher they slowed to a crawl and we trundled past them.  In the end we saw the drivers get out of their vehicles to look at the enormous ruts and they were still standing there as we walked back down Turkey Nab. We think they would have to reverse quite a way before they could turn round. Ha!

Heather to our right...

Ingleby Hall below

A traffic jam on Turkey Nab

We walk back down to Bank Foot

Alfred J Brown in his book Tramping in Yorkshire, says, "Even the longest ridge must come to an end, and suddenly the road twists, hesitates, and takes the plunge gloriously down Turkey Nab. The Cleveland County is full of 'Nabs' but Turkey Nab will take some beating."

Back at Bank Foot we stopped to stroke a couple of horses and their foal who remained shyly behind its mother, before driving the short distance to Great Ayton and the Royal Oak for a cooling pint.

"Let's see your foal?"

Re-assuring nuzzle

Hasty Bank, Cold Moor and Upper Bilsdale

 8 miles                         Mostly sunny and warm

We thought it would be nice to choose a moors walk today as by now the heather should be in full bloom.  

We parked at the top of Clay Bank and crossed the road to climb Hasty Bank, but instead of following the Cleveland Way to the top, we branched left on a small track that winds its way upwards to reach the Old Quarry, shown on the map below.

Today's route from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Small track through tall bracken

The reason for this diversion was that we wanted to pay our respects to 'The Lady of Bilsdale', described by Tom Scott Burns  as 'the enigmatic face of a lady carved on a rock wall who gazes eternally down into Bilsdale'. This ancient stone face was carved into the side of the Old Quarry, perhaps by one of the workers.  The track led us up and around Hasty Bank and at the top we came to the quarry on our right and walked over to admire the Lady and share her view of Bilsdale.

Walking up the side of Hasty Bank

Fine views of Bilsdale

Two faces gaze down at us today!

The Lady of Bilsdale

Looking down to Garfitts Gap from the disused quarry

Leaving the Lady we walked across the moor top to reach the Wainstones, where we picked our way carefully through the rocks before descending into Garfitts Gap and climbing onto Cold Moor.   TSB says that the name Wainstones is believed to derive from the Saxon 'wanian' - to howl, and that the naming of the stones means 'stones of lamentation'.   TSB mentions that his favourite graffitti to be found on the Wainstones is 'RO WOOING TD 1712' but we have yet to come across it.

Approaching the Wainstones

The Wainstones

The path takes us through the lower stones

Today's view from the Wainstones

We walked along the summit of Cold Moor (1318') for 2.5 miles with a fine view as far as the Pennines over to the west and Roseberry Topping and Easby Moor to the east.  We were now walking in fine purple heather and every time our boots knocked a bloom clouds of pollen would puff up.  The smell was very heady and bees droned all around.

Turn left at this sign and follow small track to top of Cold Moor

Nearly at the top

Looking back towards The Wainstones

Walking along the ridge of Cold Moor

Eventually we took a clear fork to the left, taking us gently down to the village of Chop Gate.  This track is known as Cold Moor Lane and we passed through a gate where the path becomes a hollow lane.  TSB says that it is possible that this passageway was established by prehistoric man and has continued in use throughout history to the present day.  Although today's weather is warm and sunny, heavy rain during the last few days has made the hollow lane very muddy.

Left onto this track to descend towards Chop Gate

Seave Green and Bilsdale Hall at 9 o'clock

The gate leads to the hollow lane...

... which is muddy from recent rain

We soon reached Chop Gate where we emerged at the old Wesleyan Chapel that is almost hidden between houses. The reason for the strange location of the chapel is that the landowner, Lord Feversham, was C of E and totally against a non-conformist church being established in the dale.  However a local shop keeper sold the Methodists this plot of land and the chapel was built in 1858.  TSB reports that it contains an interesting harmonium (pump organ) but its doors were firmly locked today.  Last time we passed this way the chapel was for sale but the sale does not appear to have taken place.

The rear of the Methodist chapel

Wesleyan Chapel

TSB says that the name Chop Gate is thought to be derived from the old Scandinavian term kaup meaning pedlar and with a number of pannier tracks converging on the village it must have been like a market place in times gone by.

We turned left into the B1257 and walked along to Seave Green whose name is thought to derive from its owner in 1301, Nicholas del Seves.  Here we crossed the road to the tarmac track to Bilsdale Hall.   On the left we passed Chisel Hill Mill which ceased operation in 1930 and later became a recording studio that was used by Chris Rea in the 1980s. The studio's name became the subject of one of his songs, Chisel Hill, which some people mistakenly think refers to Roseberry Topping.  See here.

Walking towards Seave Green

Chisel Hill Mill

Bilsdale Hall

In the past we have stopped on this lane near to Bilsdale Hall for our coffee but today, for the first time, we noticed a sign pointing towards St Hilda's church further along the lane and we decided to leave our route briefly to have a closer look.  A walk of less than 5 minutes brought us to the attractive church which was rebuilt in 1851 in the shape and style of the original church.  

Arriving at St Hilda's Church

Unfortunately the church was locked so we sat in the sun for a while and enjoyed our coffee and scones before exploring the graveyard.  There were some ancient stones, many with interesting though maudlin verses, but years of grass-strimming had caked a green deposit on the stones making the inscriptions very hard to read.  Next time we'll have to bring some water and a scrubbing brush!

"Is yon self timer working?"  "Dunno, give it another two minutes...."

Frustratingly difficult to read...

"No wrongs shall ever harm them more, Their (sic) gone into the peaceful shore, Where pain is not."

"A daughter wife and mother sleeps below, how many ties were severed with one blow, wives daughters mothers all ye mortals see, how scant the term of human life may be, live a true life and death in vain will call, who lives in Jesus will not die at all"

"Beware dear friends and weep not here, Here must I lie Till Christ appear, And in his coming hope to have, A joyful rising from the grave"

"Sleep on blest creature in thy urn, Our sobs and tears cannot awake thee, Weel (sic) stay until it be our turn"

We wandered back to Baysdale Hall and TSB's route and began the steep climb up to follow the alternative dotted path on the map above, going steeply uphill to reach Urra Moor. 

Climbing towards Urra Moor

Looking back towards Seave Green

We reach the moor gate

Climbing to reach ancient earthworks

After pausing to admire the view and regain our breath we turned left and followed the ridge, with a succession of sweeping views of Bilsdale below us.  As well as being on the ridge of the moor we also noticed we were walking alongside the remains of an earthworks.  This earthworks stretches for 2.5 miles and its origin is forgotten, perhaps defensive, or it may have been an animal enclosure. It was known as Cliff Dyke, and a couple of centuries ago as Cromwell's Lines.

TSB mentions two witches who inhabited Bilsdale's moors, Peg Humphreys and her companion Alice Wood, who was said to take the form of a cat or hare. 

Following the ridge and earthworks along Urra Moor

Approaching Maiden Spring

Boggy crossing at Maiden Spring

We followed the earthworks and eventually came to a little valley where we crossed a stream known as Maiden Spring, at 1300'.  The track and surrounding ground were very boggy at this point.


Leaving the beck we continued to follow the earthworks until we rejoined the Cleveland Way track on Carr Ridge.  We turned left and walked steeply down to Haggs Gate where we rejoined the main road for a few yards taking us back to Clay Bank Car Park and our car.

Walking back to the ridge, Maiden Spring to our left

In the distance, the Wainstones to our right and climb to Cold Moor to theleft

Our path down to Hagg's Gate