"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Thursday 9 April 2015



Tripsdale to Bransdale from Chop Gate



12.5 miles                                    Hot and sunny




The weather forecast was for sun and little wind so we decided it was time we tackled one of Tom Scott Burns's longer walks.  We parked at the village hall car park in Chop Gate and walked south along the B1257 until we saw a footpath sign indicating William Beck Farm where we turned off the road.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills


Leaving the road

A pleasant walk along the farm track brought us to William Beck Farm, long established according to TSB, who informs us that in 1160 it was named Willelmesbec.  The footpath bears right at the farm building and then climbs steeply to the moor gate.  Pressing straight on we soon dropped down Black Intake into the uninhabited and hidden dale of Tripsdale.  On the 12th February 1943, during World War 2, a Wellington Bomber returning to Croft after being hit over Holland crashed on Black Intake, killing all six crew and bits of wire and metal are still to be seen scattered in the heather.  

Moor gate

Looking back at William Beck Farm and Chop Gate

Access track down Black Intake

Ahead of us we could see the ugly scar of the shooters' track up the other side of Tripsdale heading towards Bransdale but first we thought we would divert to look at the Ship Stone, so called because the front of the stone looks like the prow of a ship.  We reached the beck and turned right for a hundred yards or so and found the Ship Stone which looks insignificant as one approaches but is enormous from the other side.  On the stone is a Latin inscription which translates as "All things are full of the Creator. John Hart, a man of Bilsdale 1849".


Following Tripsdale Beck

The Ship Stone doesn't look much from this side

Clive examines the inscription



'All things are full of the Creator' - John Hart a man of Bilsdale 1849

We walked back towards the bulldozed shooters' track passing the ruins of a dwelling which TSB explains was the home of an old cobbler who used to sell clogs and shoes outside the Fox and Hounds Inn at Seave Green on Sundays, as the congregation came down from Urra Church.  There were numerous traps set around this building but nothing had been caught.

Trap near ruins of cobbler's hut

Cobbler's hut. Traps set on each of the wooden poles

Looking back along Tripsdale from the Cobbler's Hut


We climbed out of Tripsdale onto Hagg Moor, a 'hagg' being a wood or coppice grown on broken ground, and then crossed Todd Intake Moor.  After walking for about a mile we came to two huts on the right hand side.  In the mid-90s I took shelter in one of these huts in a storm and found Tom Scott Burns had left leaflets on the table, advertising his Walker's Guides, intended to be picked up by passing hikers.  Nothing so interesting today however, but we decided it was time for a little something as we had been walking for a couple of hours.

Hagg House Moor

Huts

House martin's nest and fire break shovels

Sheep's skull doesn't frighten us off

Coffee break

We continued along the moor track for another mile or so and came to the remains of Stump Cross and, shortly after, the almost hidden turn off to Bransdale.  We would have missed this without the GPS., but once descending the track there was a reassuring cairn every hundred yards or so, to prove it wasn't just a sheep track.  We soon came to a fine view down into Bransdale.

The remains of Stump Cross

Watching us pass

The GPS says turn left here!

A track soon appears

Looking down into Bransdale

The track led us down into Bransdale, crossing a small road, and to Colt House Farm, which is marked as Bransdale Castle on old maps.  From the farm we followed way marks across several fields and descended to reach an old sun dial above Bransdale Mill.  This seemed an excellent spot for lunch with fine views in all directions.


Descending to Colt House Farm

Farm residents watch us pass

Bransdale Lodge

Sun Dial and old mill below

Inscription on sun dial warns us we'd better get on with lunch

Clive checks Tom Scott Burns' walk notes

Lunch over, we walked down to look round the old mill, which appeared to completely deserted today. On the front of the building was an inscription stating that it had been rebuilt in 1842 and the wall ties 'W' and 'S' stand for William Strickland who rebuilt the mill after moving from Farndale.  Round the back we saw a Greek inscription which was apparently the work of Strickland's son, who became curate at Ingleby Greenhow and  is responsible for a number of inscriptions in the area.  TSB says that this one means, "Rejoice evermore Pray without ceasing. In everything give thanks."


The Old Mill

Rebuilt 1842


Hebrew and Greek! See text above

Looking back at the mill as we climb out of Bransdale

A steep climb out of the dale brought us first to Cow Sike Farm and then up alongside a conifer plantation, to eventually join the ancient roadway of Rudland Rigg, which runs from Kirby Moorside to Turkey Nab above Ingleby Greenhow.   On the right of the roadway we came to a large standing stone which TSB says was 'erected by primitive hands'.  This is known as the Cammon Stone, derived from the celtic 'cam' meaning 'bank stone'.  A Hebrew inscription translates as "Hallelujah", almost certainly the work of Emmanuel Strickland from Bransdale Mill!


Walking up to Rudland Rigg

Rudland Rigg

The Cammon Stone

Hallelujah



Rudland Rigg took us to the old Rosedale Railway track at Bloworth Crossing and the Cleveland Way.  We left the railway shortly after, heading west to Botton Head, the highest point of the North Yorkshire Moors, at 1500 feet.  Here we left the Cleveland Way and headed westwards across Urra Moor, dropping off the edge to descend a lovely moor lane to Bilsdale Hall.  A short time ago we walked the other way along this lane admiring snowdrops.  They have now been replaced by a fine display of daffodils.   We passed through Seave Green and then joined the B1257 for a walk along the pavement, back to Chop Gate.  We were pleasantly surprised to find The Buck Inn open and spent a happy half hour sitting outside in the evening sun before returning to the village hall and our car.


Near Bloworth Crossing

Bloworth Crossing


Descending towards Bilsdale Hall

Moor lane

We are standing on the pavement of the B1257, this cow is happily watching cars zoom by just a few feet away!

The Buck Inn.....  and it's open!

"To short walks and long drinks!"



Thursday 2 April 2015



The Rosedale Railway and Botton Head from Ingleby Greenhow




8.5 miles                                Sunny but cool




We parked in Ingleby Greenhow in the overflow car park for the Dudley Arms and walked back to the main road, in the direction of Kildale.  Our route left the road alongside a newly built house and crossed meadows where sheep fussed with new lambs.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Walking behind houses as we leave the Kildale road

Looking back at Ingleby Greenhow

Across several meadows

.. and through fields with new lambs

I'm sorry but you're lying on our path

We soon reached Bank Foot Farm, situated under Turkey Nab which is probably derived from the old personal name Thorlkil.   Tom Scott Burns says in the Walker's Guide that in 1729 William Parkin was hung from gallows mounted on Turkey Nab for murdering his brother-in-law at Great Broughton, but our plan was to find Mary Ross's Seat, described by TSB as being at grid reference 594055.  The last time we did this walk, in February 2014, we walked along the old railway track from Bank Foot and cut upwards through the trees, eventually having to double back to the forest track to find the seat.  This time we approached the problem more sensibly and walked straight past the old railway track and up through Bank Foot Farm until we saw the forest track on our right.  We followed it until we came to the seat, carved from natural stone and with the words 'Lady Mary Ross 1837' engraved on it.   TSB explains that Lady Ross's daughter married Sir William Foulis of Ingleby Manor and the seat was built on one of her favourite walks which she used when visiting her daughter, long before the forestry commission planted conifers.


Cockerel and hens at Bank Foot Farm


Entering the forest track...

...which was muddy and difficult to negotiate

We spot Lady Ross's seat from the track

Lady Mary Ross 1837

Clive inspects Lady Ross's seat

Rather than fight our way back down to the old railway track we remained on the forest track until we reached the bottom of the incline railway, which we followed steadily uphill, pausing to admire old graffiti of a man in a stove pipe hat and a bird, probably carvings made by a bored miner.  It is a long, straight, steep climb and on reaching the top of the incline we rested, sitting in the sun with a spectacular view across to Clay Bank.  We enjoyed our coffee and scones here, looking down onto Shepherds Close Farm and what would be our descent from the moor top.

Joining the Incline from the forest track

Looking across at old mine workings from the Incline

Old graffiti of man in hat and bird

Spectacular coffee stop

Looking over at Clay Bank

Looking back down the Incline

We set off to follow the old railway line, which once ran from this point to Rosedale Bank Top 11 miles away, pausing to take a look at the huge stone blocks and bits of old iron work that once were part of the drum house which was dismantled in 1941.  We walked along the moor top and came to a memorial bench at the windiest spot. A marvellous view but there can't be many days when it's warm enough to sit there.  

The old railway track to Rosedale

Seat with a view



We continued across Greenhow Moor and came to a junction where the acorn on the signpost showed that we were joining the Cleveland Way.  We walked along the Cleveland Way, which follows a wide moor track for about 2 miles.  On the way we passed two interesting old boundary posts, the first being The Face Stone, which is mentioned in a 1642 document for the Helmsley Estate.  The second is The Hand Stone, displaying an engraved hand (now very eroded) dating from 1711.  Behind the Hand Stone is the trig point at Botton How, which is actually located on a Bronze Age burial mound and at 1490 feet is the highest point of the North Yorkshire Moors.


Ancient spooky smile ....  and The Face Stone!

Clive examines the Hand Stone

Trig Point on Botton Head

We walked back to the wide path and carried on across Urra Moor, which according to TSB derives from the Old English 'horh' meaning 'filth'!  Eventually we came to a signpost where we left the Cleveland Way and bore right on an indistinct path which dropped off the moor down Jackson's Bank and into Greenhow Plantation.


Spring plumage on grouse

We turn right towards Jackson's Bank

Starting down Jackson's Bank


Entering Greenhow Plantation

As we walked across Greenhow Botton following the farm service road we were surprised to see an old 4 engined plane flying slowly through the valley ahead of us.  How did he get permission to fly so low, we wondered?  We passed Midnight Farm to our left and then Woods Farm to our right before turning off the track at Low Farm, where we chuckled once more at the farm's 'stone circle.'


Greenhow Botton

Whoa, what's that?!


Shire horse weathervane at Low Farm
'Stone Circle' at Low Farm

Our path turned left just before the farm buildings, into fields which we crossed one after another, following an unseen right of way by aiming for the yellow right of way signs on each field boundary.  Our path eventually reached the bridge over Ingleby Beck and we crossed into the churchyard of St Andrew's beyond it.  The church was unlocked and we enjoyed a browse around the ancient building. TSB says that the original church was granted to the abbots of Whitby in 1143 by Adam de Ingelby and still retains traces of Norman work. We liked the pigs carved onto stone pillars near the altar and the fine stained glass window. 

Crossing Ingleby Beck

St Andrew's Church, Ingleby Greenhow

Sarcophagus in St Andrew's

A disapproving face notes Clive's donation

Pigs or boars on pillars

Altar window

Attractive church of St Andrew's

Leaving the church we found that we had parked very close to the Dudley Arms Hotel - what a surprise - so we popped inside to enjoy a pint and discuss today's fine walk.


The Dudley Arms, Ingleby Greenhow