"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday 9 September 2016


Birk Brow to Commondale and the 
Quaker Causeway


11 miles                               Bright and breezy



We parked at Birk Brow car park (free) at the top of Birk Brow Bank, 3 miles east of Guisborough on the A171.



Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

The Beacon at Birk Brow


This was a new walk to us and I had carefully entered a track into my GPS.  Unfortunately I had forgotten to change its batteries and it expired before we reached Charltons, so we walked with only an OS map and Tom Scott Burns' route description and we were fine.

We left the car at a footpath near to the brazier mounted at the car park. TSB says that this beacon was one of thirteen beacons lit to mark the 400th anniversary of the Spanish Armada, in July 1988.  Apparently during the actual invasion it would have taken only 18 minutes by beacon to pass the message from the Lizard to Berwick, and across country from East Anglia to Wales.

We passed a caravan park and emerged at Margrove Park Heritage Centre, following the road to cross the A171 at the old mining village of Charltons.  Slapewath mine was in operation here from 1872 to 1906 and the nearby Spa drift mine until 1931.




Walking down from Birk Brow to Margrove Centre

We pass through dense woodland

Masses of berries this year on the rowan trees


Passing the Margrove Centre

Walking through Charltons

Leaving the village we turned left onto a forest track as the road reached the A171 once more. We joined the Cleveland Way track and were now walking through the old mine workings of Spawood.


Bear left off the road....

... and join the Cleveland Way

Through Spawood on the Cleveland Way

We walked through Guisborough Woods, once thick with conifers planted in the 1950s and 1960s by the Forestry Commision.  TSB describes walking through "corridors of timber" but this is no longer the case, many of the trees having been felled and fed to the Biomass furnace at Wilton Power Station




No longer a "corridor of timber"

Looking east towards the coast and wind farm

Leaving Guisborough Woods for the moor
 
The route emerges from Guisborough Woods and heads south towards Commondale Moor.  Sadly now that September is here the beautiful purple bloom is fading from the heather.  We passed through the moor gate and walked for a couple of miles, pausing when we saw an old stone shelter.  There was a stiff breeze and we decided this would be a good spot to stop for coffee and scones.


Passing through the moor gate

Heather starting to fade

A nice spot for coffee

Packing up

The farmer and friends pass with a cheery wave and a bark

A little further along we came to a memorial stone standing alone in the heather.  It is to the memory of Robbie Leggott and Alf Cockerill, killed in WW1.  We wondered why such a lonely spot had been chosen for the stone, where few friends or relatives would visit it.



We cross the heather to visit the memorial


A lonely spot for a memorial

After another mile we descended from the moor to cross Whitely Beck on the outskirts of Commondale.  TSB explains that the name Commondale comes from Colman's dale or valley, after the seventh century Bishop Colman of Lindisfarne, who had been a monk at Whitby.




Dropping down to Whitely Beck...

... we reach Commondale

Unusual sign for these parts - it means "Keep entry clear"

Dropping in to Commondale

We walked downhill into the village and noticed that several older buildings are built in a bright red brick.  These are from the Cleveland Fire Brick and Pottery Company which was to the left of the crossroads in the village, which ceased production in 1947.  

The bricks are very distinctive and the old school and church, as well as one or two houses, are still here to be admired. 


The village pub

The old school house and school

Weather vane at the school

St Peter's Church, Commondale

We found the church to be unlocked and went in for a look around.  The red brick walls are very impressive as are the art deco style altar windows.

Looking towards the altar

The altar window





St Colman


Brick workers' cottages at Commondale


Checking our notes to keep on the straight and narrow

We left St Peter's and climbed out of the village, leaving the road just after a right hand bend and crossing the moor towards Brown Hill.  The ground here was still very boggy in places but our track remained dry.  We were surprised to see other walkers approaching us, a rare sight on a TSB walk.


Boggy land next to our track

A walking group passes us in the opposite direction

Shortly after we reached the bend in the road beyond Brown Hill we joined the erroneously named Quakers' Causeway.  We now walked for a couple of miles along these ancient stone slabs set in the moor.  TSB explains that it is now thought that this stone path may have connected the Augustinian Monks of Guisborough Priory (1119-1540) to Commondale and the priory at Baysdale (1189-1539).

There are a number of these causeways on the North York Moors and TSB says that two men would lead 30 or 40 pack ponies over the rough terrain carrying coal, lime, wool, fish and so on.



We look down on Lockwood Beck reservoir

Brown Hill

We join the 'Quakers' Causeway'

Easy walking through the heather




As we walked along the causeway we saw an adder, probably a young one by its size, sunbathing on the path.  Unfortunately it saw us at the same time and by the time I got my camera out it was streaking under Clive's boot and into the heather where it vanished immediately. 


Adder refuses to pose for the camera
We turn right into the footpath, from the bridleway

The causeway carries on down to Aysdale Gate but we turned right onto a footpath which leads us back to the car park at Birk Brow.


The end of the walk at Birk Brow






Friday 2 September 2016


Kildale to Baysdale and its Lost Abbey

 

9 miles                                       Sun and Cloud


We parked in Kildale at the side of the road and left the village towards Little Kildale.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Tom Scott Burns informs us that Kildale is a village of great antiquity.  There are several 'Kildals' in Norway and the village was probably named by the Vikings.  It was called Childale in the Domesday Book.   In 1156, where the church now stands, was a wooden castle built by the Percys, Earls of Northumberland.  Walking through the village we turned off the road towards Little Kildale and passed through a couple of sheep fields before reaching Little Kildale Wood and then on to Warren Farm, where Clive had spent a happy summer holiday when a schoolboy.

Memorial stone near to Kildale Hall

The Old Rectory, Kildale

Walking towards Little Kildale


Pheasants lead us along the road

Following our path past Warren Farm we came to a large square chimney as we descended to Leven Vale.  This is the remains of an ironstone mine that was operational between 1866 and 1874.  Crossing the River Leven, whose source was just to our right, we started a climb up through meadows towards Kildale Moor. 

Leaving Warren Farm towards Kildale Moor

Ironstone Mine chimney





Passing the moor gate

Looking back towards Warren Farm


We climbed steadily to Kildale Moor and having reached the top at 900 feet, we started to descend towards Baysdale Beck, soon reaching the remains of an old barn where our path turned sharp left.  

Our track, which runs parallel to Baysdale Beck, is an old lime road that enabled limestone to be
carried from Commondale into Cleveland, which we followed for 1.5 miles until we reached a tarmac road.
As we walked we watched a team of workers on the moor making their way through the thick bracken and heather aided by a vehicle.  They appeared to be spraying the bracken and we didn't envy them their job.  It must be difficult ground to walk through all day.

Crossing Kildale Moor

Descending to the old farm buildings near Baysdale Beck

We turn left and follow the old lime road

Bracken spraying

On reaching the road we turned right and walked downhill to the pretty ford at Hob Hole where we selected a flat rock to sit and enjoy our coffee and scones.  As it was 11am and still within the school holidays we were surprised to find the beauty spot deserted.

A nice spot for a little something

The ford at Hob Hole

Looking back as we leave

Hob Hole was supposed to be the haunt of a mischievous hobgoblin who taunted weary travellers and TSB reports a Canon Atkinson speaking of Padfoot,  "Padfoot, a precursor of death; sometimes visible, sometimes invisible, but ever and anon padding lightly in the rear of people, then again before them or at their side, and uttering a roar unlike the voice of any known animal."   

Fortunately there was no sign of Padfoot today and we ate our scones in peace before crossing the ford and heading steeply up the tarmac road, then turning into John Breckon Road.  As we walked along this narrow road we had fine views over towards Westerdale.

Steep uphill from Hob Hole


Turning right into John Breckon Road

Looking down towards Westerdale from John Breckon Road


After half a mile or so we turned off John Breckon Road onto a heather track that returned us back along the opposite side of Baysdale Beck, passing a memorial to Alan Clegg 'Who loved these moors'.  We arrived at Great Hograh Beck where there is a small stone footbridge and a wooden memorial seat, noting that another commemorative brass plaque has been added to the bench since we last passed this way.   
TSB says that the footbridge was built in 1938, according to an inscription, and was the work of Rowland Close, of nearby Low House Farm.
Turning off John Breckon Road on to the moor


Memorial cairn

Memorial bench at Great Hograh Beck




A new memorial plaque since our last visit



Shortly after the stone bridge we turned right onto a wide track and followed the path across the moor.  We walked downhill and passed by the above mentioned Low House Farm where Clive fed apples to a horse and a couple of ponies.

Rowan tree heavy with berries near Great Hograh Beck

Approaching Low House


Low House



Hanging on his every word....

We passed through Thorntree House Farm before reaching the Abbey where we were spotted by a pen of sheepdogs who raised a terrific din.
A short walk took us to the side of Baysdale Abbey.  The original abbey was occupied by 9 or 10 nuns from 1190 to 1539.   TSB tells how in 1304 Prioress Joan de Percy had not adhered to the monastic rules and Archbishop Corbridge had to commit the custody of the nuns of Baysdale to Roger de Kellshay, rector of Crathorne.  By 1307 Joan was still disobedient and was deprived of her post. She absconded from the abbey with some other nuns and Archbishop Grenfield ordered them back to the abbey "that they return without delay and not go outside the precincts of the abbey and serve God under the yoke of obedience..."   Unfortunately TSB doesn't relate how the story ends, did Joan continue with her wild ways or submit to the yoke of obedience?

We were interested to see a bat box on one of the abbey buildings and then walked away from the buildings across a quaint stone bridge which is apparently the only substantial remnant of the original abbey.  Crossing the bridge we followed the road to a footpath sign where we turned right to climb steeply through fields, all the way to the dale top, at a height of 1050 feet, where we paused to admire the view back to the abbey and collect our breath.

Sheepdogs at Baysdale Abbey Farm

Bat Box

Baysdale Abbey

Clive crossing the old bridge

The ancient abbey bridge

We turn right off the road to climb steeply to the dale top


The abbey far below us

Turn right and follow the tarmac road
 

We joined a tarmac road and turned right to follow it.  After a few minutes walking on this road we saw a stone memorial to the crew of a second world war plane that crashed on Kildale Moor; sadly the crew died from exposure before they could be rescued.

Looking across towards Battersby



We were amused to see a sheep with a punk hair do.  Actually it was orange baling twine and we suspect it must have pushed its head through a fence and got the twine caught around its horns.


A nice hair-do


"I don't think it's funny..."


We now had a walk of a couple of miles on tarmac as we descended towards Kildale.  At one point we were interested to see rock climbers on the rocky face of Park Nab.
The walk along tarmac was made more interesting by fine weather and fine views towards Battersby and beyond, and we soon reached Kildale and the end of our walk, where preparations were underway for Saturday's village show.

Climbing on Park Nab

Honeysuckle in the hedge