"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday 2 April 2021

Nether and Over Silton to Hanging Stone and Oakdale Reservoir

 

Nether and Over Silton to Hanging Stone and Oakdale Reservoir


                  7.8 miles                                  Fine with a cold wind 


The slight relaxation in Coronavirus restrictions has allowed Clive and I to put on our walking boots again, and what better walk for us than this, one of our favourite Tom Scott Burns walks.  It has a bit of everything; moors, villages, forests and even a reservoir.  We parked at Square Corner, the moors car park which is two miles from Osmotherley on the Hawnby road.  


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills
Leaving Square Corner, Black Hambleton ahead
Osmotherley below is getting a bit of a shower


Leaving the car we walked southwards along the forest path up the shoulder of Black Hambleton.  

We turned right through a gate giving access to the remains of the conifer plantation where the path, known as Moor Lane, takes one steadily downhill for about 2.5 miles.  This is a pleasant start to the walk and took us out of the stiff cold breeze.

National Cycle Path sign on Moor Lane
Remains of a lime kiln on Moor Lane
Imposing Moor House

We walked through through conifers, passing the ruins of a lime kiln and the imposing Moor House.  In a field nearby we saw Southdown sheep in a field that were obviously pets, as they ran over to be fussed.

Southdown Sheep
"Just a bit further back.."
Clive checks that they do have eyes!

A little further along Moor Lane we came to Rose Cottage and on the right an ancient drinking trough, before joining the lane leading into Nether Silton.  

Kepwick over to the left

Ancient drinking trough


The forest path becomes a tarmac lane which eventually leads to Kirk Ings Lane, where we turned left, then right, to enter the lovely village of Nether Silton.  Turning left off our path, just before the church, took us to the Manor Stone with its mysterious inscription. The monument was apparently the idea of Squire Hicks to mark the site of the medieval manor house.  His inscription takes the form of a mnemonic.  It is necessary to know that the first letter of each word is all that is provided and this isn't terribly helpful to the modern reader!


The 'new' manor house at Nether Silton
The Manor Stone
The letters stand for, "Here the grand old manor house stood, the black beams were oak, the great walls were good, the walls at the east wing are hidden here, a thatched cottage like a barn was erected here, AD 1765  A wide porch spans a yard and alcove"

Leaving the Manor Stone we returned to All Saints Church which has re-opened to the public. 


All Saints Church, Nether Silton
Covid friendly font
Clive admires the wood, from HMS Dreadnought



All Saints is a chapel of ease which was rebuilt in 1812. Such a chapel is built for the convenience of parishioners who would find it difficult to access the main church, in this case isolated St Mary's which we would pass by shortly.

Tom Scott Burns explains that wood used in the altar rails and other  refurbishments was presented by a R M Jaques, and were from HMS Dreadnought of Lord Nelson's day.

We left the church and immediately turned off the road at a white gate opposite, just near to the post box.  At last someone has affixed a waymark sign to the gate leading to the narrow passage that takes us between houses to open fields.

Through the white gate...
... to fields beyond

After crossing several fields we came to the ancient and isolated church of St Mary, Over Silton, standing alone in the middle of fields without any path leading to it.  We seem to have caught the very best time to visit as daffodils filled the graveyard and made a marvellous sight!

We see St Mary's in the distance



The daffodils were in full bloom and could only have looked better if the sun had been shining.

We sat in the graveyard on the Jubilee Bench and enjoyed our coffee and scones before spending some time exploring the church and reading the inscriptions on the old gravestones.  The church is always open to visitors and has a very peaceful air.  No electricity of course and candelabras hanging from the roof.  Tom Scott Burns tells us that it still has its original Norman zigzag mouldings around the doorway.



Altar window

Scones amongst the daffodils
'Cruel death did soon take them both away, Because on earth they might no longer stay, But hope in Heaven we shall meet again, And there in endless joy always remain'
Base of ancient cross
Mary, wife of Charles who died April 16th 1788 aged 44. 'Sweet children and husband dear, live still by faith and nothing fear, But sin which is the root of strife, The seed of death the bane of life, What am I now, dust and shade, Yourselves the same, your life doth fade, This I suggest from silent urn, that whilst I speak your heart may burn, and be in flame with heavenly love, Aspiring still to things above'
'Can love you hate, can life you kill, Can evil spring from God's good will.  This is his will that widowers chaste, Should trust in God and not make haste, Accept those words. Not else I crave.  Do not despise a spouses grave. And let me whisper one thing more, you and the children have in store, Treasure of sighs, tears, groans and prayers,  Of which you are the rightful heirs.  She that in silent dust doth sleep For you to God did often weep.  Struggling with God that he might give,  you grace in Christ to make you live. Hoping for this she did expire, God will you save, you shall Admire, Our pledges to thy care are given, the choicest gift of kindest heaven,  Their father, mother both in thee, United now they nearly see,  The soul that hindering wishes to be free,  Would yet a train of thoughts impart to thee,  But strives in vain the chilling hand of death.'
'Just in the darling of my youth,Then death to me was sent, And you that have a longer stay, Be certain to repent'

'Remember man as thou goes by, as thou is now so once was I, As I am now so will you be, Prepare yourself to follow me'

As we wandered the graveyard Clive spotted a hare hidden in the grass. It remained perfectly still for a moment as we examined its nest or 'form', then suddenly shot out and away, far too quickly for my camera to get a good shot.

What has Clive spotted?
Can you see it yet?
And it's off!

We walked across the fields away from the isolated church and towards the village of Over Silton where we passed by the old manor house.  TSB tells us that this was once owned by the gallant gentleman Sir George Orby Wombwell, baronet, who served with the 17th Lancers and took part in the charge of the Light Brigade at Balaclava on 25th October 1854.  His horse was shot from under him and he was taken prisoner but escaped on a Russian horse to rejoin his brigade and charge again, without sword or pistol!  He died in 1913 aged 81.  We turned right and walked beyond the houses to a left turn where our path parted from the road and climbed steeply into Crabtree Bank Plantation. 

The old manor house at Over Silton
The old schoool
A Hen Pod!

Turn left into Crabtree Bank Plantation...
... and climb straight up

The next 2.5 miles pass through conifers, sometimes on wide forestry tracks and sometimes on narrow footpaths.

We could not find the path to Hanging Stone shown on TSB's map above and Hanging Stone can no longer be seen, having disappeared from sight behind saplings.  

In the 1980s when TSB walked through these woods he would have had a fine view of Hanging Stone and of the countryside below but sapling growth has spoiled both views to a certain extent.

Two deer deep in the trees
Good camouflage
This hare remained absolutely still as we approached..
About to disappear
Spring finery


We followed a distinct path into the dense trees of Big Wood and  crossed a clearing where felling had taken place, to re-enter dense conifers and follow a way-marked path until we came to a slippery descent into Oak Dale.

Checking for frogspawn
Yep, plenty there
Always a muddy spot, we need to take the path uphill
A long climb

And then go past the Xmas decorations..   Xmas Decorations?!

The long walk through these conifers is a bit like walking through a war zone as you are accompanied by constant bangs from Thimbleby Gun School situated in the fields below the woods.  

Reaching the bottom we exited the trees and crossed a bridge over Jenny Brewster's Gill and emerged from the wood.


Walking down to Jenny Brewsters Gill


Tom Scott Burns explains that Jenny Brewster's Gill was named after a famous witch and was once the haunt of smugglers who peddled liquor to the surrounding villages.  Several secret stills were dotted around the moors, one being at Solomon's Temple, another Wildgoose Nest, near what is now Cod Beck Reservoir and another at Swainsty Crag on Nether Silton Moor.

Oakdale Reservoir

We now walked alongside Oakdale Reservoir which was built in the 19th century to provide water to the local area but which has been decommissioned. The reservoir has been downgraded to a small lake that it is hoped will attract wildfowl.  Nothing to be seen today however!

After passing by the reservoir we dropped down to recross Jenny Brewsters Gill and noticed a large trap further downstream, so diverted to have a look at it.  Nothing had been caught so we resumed our path, now uphill back to Square Corner.

That's a big trap!
Bigger than usual. We wonder if they're after mink?
Stand on the metal plate and you're dead!
Looking down to Oakdale Reservoir from the climb to Square Corner
The end of a good walk

 Most recommended!






Monday 25 January 2021

 


Eston Hills Circular from Flatts Lane

5.5 miles             Sunny, cold and still



This short walk of Tom Scott Burns is a local one so has the advantage of being a suitable choice for my daily exercise session during lockdown.  It's also nearly 6 years since I walked it.  

We appoached Flatts Lane via the A171 and parked in the public car park that is built on the site of the old Normanby Brick and Tile Company, which was established in 1883.


Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills
Car Park at Flatts Lane

From the car park we walked along the field to a stile which took us on to Flatts Lane, emerging opposite Rose Cottage.  A perilous 100 yard walk up Flatts Lane as cars zoomed past brought us to a footpath on the left side of the road and we crossed here to enter Ten Acre Bank and immediately left civilisation behind.  Tom Scott Burns reports that Flatts Lane was metalled across the Eston Hills to the Guisborough road by the local authorities in the days of the depression.  Evidence of ironstone working is all around the area, worked by Bell Bros until 1889 when the Cargo Fleet Iron Company took over.  There was a weekly extraction of 3,000 tons of ore from the surrounding hills.

Nanook of the North is ready for the off!
Only 100 yards but this is a busy road with no pavements
Cross at the sign and straight into...
... the trees of Ten Acre Bank

A short climb brought us to a T junction where we turned right and followed a pleasant path below Ten Acre Bank.  The path was frozen solid but it was obvious that its normal state would have been very muddy indeed.

Our path was parallel to Flatts Lane until we turned left over a stile and into a meadow which led to Mill Farm and then Claphams Wood.  This was a lovely path and we were surprised that it was so little walked and in fact we didn't see another soul until we reached the Nab monument.  It was difficult to believe that we were not far above the main Guisborough road.


Walking parallel to Flatts Lane
Cross the stile and into fields
A pleasant path



View over to Roseberry to our right
Mill Farm

A steady climb alongside the wood on little walked paths, thick with  brambles, brought us to Moordale Bog, which was frozen so felt firm underfoot.  TSB tells us that here, hidden among the undergrowth, is the ruins of Upsall Pit, run by Bolckow, Vaughan and Co from 1866 and then Dorman Long and Co until 1945.  The shaft was 564 feet deep and in all 63 million tons of iron ore were extracted from these hills between 1850 and 1949. 


Walk downhill to Mill Farm to cross the stile
The way-mark is down
Sometimes just in the wood...
... and sometimes just outside the trees
Carole stops to admire the view
The view!
We see the transmitter masts for the first time
The track would be difficult in places if not frozen

A small community lived here in the now forgotten village of Barnaby and provisions for the village were brought via the underground mine railway.  TSB says that the foundations of two rows of cottages can still be seen, as can the capped well.  We found the well but not the foundations. Also demolished were a chapel and a schoolroom built in 1871.

The trees of Clapham Wood


This well is all that remains visible of Barnaby Village

 Another climb took us onto Wilton Moor where we came to a convenient bench with a magnificent view across to Roseberry Topping, an ideal place to sit in the sun and enjoy our coffee and scones.

More mine remains, these stone posts have metal plates inset
Coffee with a view
The view from our bench

Our path headed north west across Eston Moor where TSB says early man built barrows and left flint tools dating from 6000 to 2000 BC, until we reached a cluster of transmitter masts.  We walked on towards the Eston Nab Monument where we paused and read the bronze inscription. 

We pass by the transmitter masts...
... to reach the beacon at Eston Nab


At this spot a beacon tower was constructed in 1808 during the Napoleonic Wars.  After 1815 it was used as a house and from 1884 was the home of a David Helm and his wife until 1933, when the body of 80 year old Mr Helm, who had outlived his wife by a year, was carried by horse drawn cart down for burial at Wilton churchyard.  In 1956 it was finally demolished and the present monument was built by ICI, using the stone from the original beacon.   We stood and enjoyed an amazing panoramic view of Teesside and beyond from the Nab.


Views from Eston Nab


The yellow block is the nuclear power station
The houses of Eston below

The area around the monument was once an Iron Age hill fort dating from 550 BC.  TSB says that it probably served as a refuge for surrounding settlements and calcined bones have been found at the site which prove that cannibalism took place, possibly when ancient warriors were besieged on the nab.


The flag in memory of Lee Rigby, the murdered soldier

We followed the path along the escarpment where someone has erected a flag in memory of Lee Rigby, the murdered soldier, and here we met our first people of the day.  We continued along the path to pass by Carr Pond.

We walk along the ridge


Carr Pond

TSB informs us that during the last war a Junkers Ju88A aeroplane crashed here on 30th March 1941 after being shot down by a Spitfire from 41 Squadron.  All four crew died and during the war another three aircraft crashed on these moors, including a Spitfire which crashed near to the Junkers site.

We begin descending towards Flatts Lane
Flatts Lane Hospital, once a teacher training college

We now started the descent back towards Flatts Lane and our car.  We agreed that it had been an interesting walk with great views in the clear weather, and it was good to get an unfamiliar view of the familiar places and industrial landscapes so close to our homes.




A short walk but a good one!