Walking in North Yorkshire

Ladhill Gill and Bumper Castle from Fangdale Beck

7.5 miles Grey, dry and cool

We turned off the B1257 Bilsdale Road and drove past an old green telephone kiosk to the village of Fangdale Beck where we parked at the roadside.

Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills


Fangdale Beck

Tom Scott Burns tells us that Fangdale comes from the personal Scandinavian name Fangi or Fangulf, giving Fangi's Valley. It is a very quiet village, the post office next to our car is now a private house as is the old Wesleyan Chapel, which retains its original appearance. We crossed the bridge next to the old Chapel and followed the tarmac lane around to a farm with a sign above the door inscribed Malkin Bower. (Matilda's or Maude's dwelling)

Old Wesleyan Chapel, now a house


Malkin Bower

Once past the farm the tarmac vanished and our track became a muddy path which we followed along the valley of Bilsdale, parallel to the road below us. The path dropped down to the River Seph becoming wetter and muddier before climbing gently up to Helm House where we were met with a muddy sea around the farm gates. We were interested to see a very old tractor and ancient road roller here, gradually surrendering to nature.

Dropping down into Bilsdale

Geese grazing in the field

Climbing up towards Helm House

Clive decides how to negotiate the mud


Helm House

Leaving Helm House our path continued parallel to the River Seph until we reached Benhill Bank where the ground finally became less muddy as we climbed towards a conifer plantation. At the top of the bank we turned right onto a tarmac road which we left, bearing right, after a couple of hundred yards. We now walked across fields, our path completely undetectable apart from the occasional yellow waymark.

A ram and his ladies are indignant at our passing

Benhill Bank

Our path up through the gates

The last gate took us to the moor edge and the path became more distinct, leading from the moor gate. Looking down to our right we saw the ruins of Bumper Castle behind a grove of trees. TSB tells us that the castle was once part of the estate of the Duke of Buckingham and also that the monks of Rievaulx once wrought iron on Bumper Moor. We met another track leading straight down to the valley bottom and Ladhill Gill. Reaching the stream we sat on some convenient rocks for our usual coffee and scones, sheltered from the breeze. Inspired by the celebrities at this week's Oscars I took a 'selfie' as I tucked into my scone.

The Moor Gate, Easterside Hill in the distance

The ruins of Bumper Castle

Walking down to Ladhill Gill

'Selfie'

Ladhill Gill

Our path took us over a fairly modern bridge and then straight up the opposite hillside to a farm named Sportsman's Hall. TSB suspects that the name suggests a link to the sporting activities of Bumper Castle but it now appears to be a working farm, skirted by our path above. We reached a tarmac road and turned right at the Moor Gate to walk to the information board and car park at Arden Moor.

Crossing Ladhill Gill

Upriver from the bridge

Sportsman's Hall

Hawnby Hill

Information board for Arden Moor

We turned right at the information board and walked along the vehicle track for a mile or so until we took a right fork to walk back down towards Wetherhouse Beck. Once again we left all signs of a footpath behind and crossed a large boggy area, looking out for the rare yellow waymarks until we crossed the beck and climbed across rough ground. We reached a drystone wall which we followed until we gained the moor top.

Wetherhouse Moor, Easterside Hill and Hawnby Hill in the distance

Heading towards Wetherhouse Beck

Looking back to the vehicle track we had just left

Rough boggy walking towards the Moor top

From here we looked down into Bilsdale and the village of Fangdale. Our path passed through a gate and then steeply downhill by some old quarry workings and eventually emerged at Malkin Bower Farm where we turned left to walk back to our start point in Fangdale.