"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday, 8 July 2016


Old Byland to Nettledale and Scawton



7.5 miles                      Cloudy, warm and humid




We approached Old Byland from the B1257 Bilsdale road via Reivaulx village and parked in the village, at the roadside close to the green.



Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills

In The Walker's Guide to the Hambleton Hills, Tom Scott Burns describes this walk as embodying all the charm of Ryedale as it passes throught the villages of Old Byland, Scawton and Cold Kirby.   He goes on to say that in 1143 the Norman baron Roger de Mowbray granted land in Ryedale to some wandering monks from Furnace Abbey in Lancashire.  They moved about the dale for a few years before settling on a site they called Bellalanda, or Byeland.   

We walked through the village green and as we left the village we turned left through a gate and into the woods of Low Gill.  The track was badly overgrown and thick with nettles and gradually descended to Ashberry Pasture, a wild-flower sanctuary maintained by the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust.  Our trousers and boots were soon sodden as the undergrowth was wet and care was needed on slippery paths with a drop to our right side.


Entering the woods from Old Byland

Don't try this in shorts!

Walking through Low Gill

Ashberry Pasture

We joined the road just below Asberry Hill and walked to a junction next to Ashberry Farm, which looked as picturesque as ever. The old sheepdog was still on guard duty, just as it had been  when we last passed this way over a year ago.


Joining the Rievaulx road beneath Ashberry Hill

Rear of Ashberry Farm


Front of Ashberry Farm


We turned right over the bridge at Ashberry farm and followed the Scawton road past Hagg Hall, leaving the road at Bradley Bank and following a woodland track as it meandered through Nettle Dale.  Three large man made lakes were to our right and stretched along most of our track through Nettle Dale until we reached a footbridge and  Cleveland Way sign on our right.  We tuned left here and walked uphill into Spring Wood.


Highland Cattle near Hagg Hall

We join the Cleveland Way for a while

Leaving the road to enter Nettledale

One of the large lakes in Nettledale

.
Climbing to Spring Wood


Old Inn Way sign to Nettledale

 

Our path went through Spring Wood until we reached a tarmac road which we followed into Scawton, which is Norse for farm in the hollow.

We sat on a convenient bench opposite the village hall and enjoyed our coffee and scones before sharing an apple with a couple of pigs who had been making their presence known with a lot of grunting and squealing in the field behind us.



Entering Scawton

"Anything left for us?"

Clive shares his apple


 
Ready for the pot!

 

After finishing our coffee we wandered over to the Church of St Mary which we found  unlocked, so we entered for a look around.

St Mary's is a nicely kept church and an effort has been made to highlight points of interest for the visitor.  

 

St Mary's Church, Scawton

Weather-vane on house opposite the church

"We loved her yes we loved her,but Jesus loved her more, He hath sweetly called her, to yonder happy home"  Shouldn't that last word be shore?

With restless days and sleepless nights,this weary frame was sore opprest, 'till God the silver cord unloosed, and gave the heavy laden rest"
We looked at some of the old gravestones and read their grim epitaphs before entering the church.  We feel it is nice that these village churches are left unlocked for visitors in these lawless times.








12 Century font

Looking towards the altar
Looking to the rear of the church

The lavatorium to the left and the piscina on the right



Memorial in St Mary's to Free French Airmen from WW2


TSB says that the church was built by the Cistercians of Byland Abbey "owing to the divers perils and fatigue which the parishioners underwent in coming from Scawton to Byland."

In the porch is an interesting memorial to five Free French Airmen who were killed nearby in WW2.

Leaving the church we returned to the village green and crossed the grass to an overgrown path behind the village telephone box.  Sadly it would appear that this part of today's walk is not being used by other walkers and the fields show no sign of tracks.  We kept to our path by using the yellow way-marks posted on field boundaries  until we descended back into Flassen Dale and turned left onto a broad path then almost immediately climbed up the other side of the dale.

 
Leaving Scawton


The path is unused and we follow yellow way marks


Approaching the trees of Flassen Dale

Fighting our way into Flassen Dale

Leaving Flassen Dale we walked straight across several fields towards Cold Kirby.  These fields contained numerous pens of partridges, almost fully grown and no doubt being readied for the Glorious Twelfth.  Some birds had already been released and were wandering on the road ahead of us, showing little fear.

 
Food and water for game birds

Partridge pens

The birds were not alarmed by our presence

 

On the outskirts of Cold Kirby we met a couple walking towards us and we noticed they were carrying directions for The Inn Way.  We stopped and chatted for a while and they told us about their adventures on the Inn Way over the last few days.  We wished them well for their last day's walk and continued to St Michael's Church in the village.

 
St Michael's Church

 
The unusual colour scheme of St Michael's in Coild Kirby

 

We paused for a very brief look at the church but didn't stay long, having just spent over half an hour at St Mary's in Scawton.

TSB explains that the church had been rebuilt in the 1800s but originally dated back to the 12th century when the parish was administered by the Order of Knights Templar. Perhaps this oriental link had inspired the purple ceiling?

 

Leaving Cold Kirby
 

We looked into the village briefly and then followed the Cleveland Way sign to rejoin our path for the steady descent to Nettle Dale.

 
Partridges take the lead

Good camouflage

Descending to Nettledale

We leave the Cleveland Way at Nettledale

Nettledale

 

At Nettle Dale we parted from the Cleveland Way as we reached the lakes, turning left into a field and crossing to a gated bridge over a stream.  We now had a steep climb out of Nettle Dale through Calister Wood, until we reached fields on the other side.  Our path now ran straight across these field boundaries to Old Byland, first descending and crossing Low Gill's woods again.

 
Approaching a gated bridge into Calister Wood

Climbing through Calister Wood

We rejoin the road near Old Byland

 

Our path brought us back to the road leading into Old Byland and we walked through the village green to reach our car.  

 

Charmingly named accommodation in Old Byland

Fox weather-vane in Old Byland

House in Old Byland

 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday, 24 June 2016


No blog this week.  We've been walking 

The Corfu Trail 





A 220 km walk in the sun

Thursday, 2 June 2016


The lost village of Pinchinthorpe from Newton



7 miles                        Grey and drizzle


As the weather is so cold and miserable and the hills are covered with low cloud and drizzle, we decided on this walk which we haven't done since 2013.


We parked in the layby at Newton under Roseberry and walked through the village past the Kings Head pub to the pay and display car park at the other end of the village.  Our track leaves the main road here and goes directly towards Roseberry Topping which dominates the skyline.

 
Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

The old village hall at Newton

Turning towards Roseberry Topping

This track was very muddy and we were pleased when we reached the gate into the woods under Roseberry where we turned left.   Our track now follows a hedge up to Roseberry Common towards Bousdale Hill, where we kept left and walked towards a conifer wood in the distance.  This is Hanging Stone Wood and we turned left into a field just as we reached it.



Walking towards Hanging Stone Wood

Bright display of bluebells




Looking back at Newton under Roseberry

Newton under Roseberry below us

The east side of Roseberry behind us



Bousdale Hill ahead

We left the path at a field gate and walked alongside a rape seed crop before turning right at the bottom of the field where our path led us to Bousdale Farm.  The buildings appear unoccupied while renovations are being carried out.  Tom Scott Burns explains that Bousdale Farm was built to house Sir Joseph Pease's thoroughbred hunters. There was no water supply so Pease introduced a syphon system using a huge boiler which had done service in the first steamship that berthed in the Tees.

The old stables are an interesting design and it looks as if there are plans to adapt them for holiday homes.



Hanging Stone Wood ahead, we turn left through the gate

Follow the field paths


The unmistakable profile of Roseberry Topping in the mist

Bousdale Farm

The old stables

The unusually shaped building

After the farm our path crossed a field before following the field edge until a forestry track was reached.  This gently descended to meet the old disused railway track to Pinchinthorpe station.



Following field paths

Descending the forestry path

Newt sculpture near the station

Pinchinthorpe is an old village. TSB relates that the Domesday Book says Ulchil possessed a manor of 3 carucates, which is the amount of land that could be ploughed in a year using one team, between 60 and 180 acres depending on soil quality, at Torpe. The village's present name comes from the Norman family name of Pinciun who held the land in the 12th century.

We stopped at the cafe here and enjoyed coffee and scones.

 
Approaching the cafe on our right


The old station, now houses


Showing how the station looked in 1964

After leaving the cafe we walked along the old railway track that used to run from Middlesbrough to Guisborough, past the old station, all the time with a fine view to Roseberry Topping on our left.

The old railway track

Pinchinthorpe Hall and Roseberry to our left



We leave the railway track by the side of this small pond

We left the old railway track and passing a small pond on our right, we looked across to our right at the strangely named Spite Hall.  TSB says that it was well named because it was built by a younger son to obstruct the view of his elder brother who had inherited Pinchinthorpe Hall, across the fields.

We crossed a couple of fields towards the Middlesbrough to Whitby line, which is still operational and as we reached it followed the line, staying to the left hand side of the track.




The Middlesbrough to Whitby railway line

We followed the railway for a couple of fields and then climbed a stile to cross diagonally towards Nunthorpe Stell.  This meant walking through a field of very frisky bullocks who galloped off as we walked towards them.

We admired the stell from the bridge before entering another field of cattle, this time young heifers.  To our surprise the cattle did not run away but stood challenging us.  We waved our arms and they backed away but as we started to cross the field one heifer charged at us.  Clive waved his arms and I waved my walking pole and shouted and it veered away, but came back again and again as we crossed the field.  None of the other cattle bothered but this particular beast was determined to see us off.  We were glad to get out of the field.

Nunthorpe Stell

I politely let Clive go first
Come on girls, we want to be through there

The rogue heifer stalks us across the field

Shoo cow!

We walked across a field towards Snow Hall Farm. TSB wonders at the origin of this name and guesses that it derives from Ann Snowdon who lived there in the 1890s.


Pond at Snow Hall Farm

Suffolk lambs at Snow Hall

Ram alone in adjacent field


The lane quickly led from Snow Hall Farm to Newton and the ancient St Oswald's Church.  We had a look around the walls of this interesting old building and admired the Anglo-Saxon carved stone set in the tower of the church showing a dragon and some sort of quadruped.  Tom Scott Burns says that this stone was actually described in an eleventh century book called 'Bestiaries'.

TSB notes that until the dissolution of the monasteries this church was run by the monks at Whitby but was made a parish in 1539.

There were some ancient gravestones, some too old to read but we were disappointed to find the church locked.

St Oswald's Church

The old hall, Newton

Stone coffin

Anglo-Saxon stone carving

Even the lych-gate is a listed building!

Clive admires the lych-gate

Across the green from the church stands The King's Head and we wandered over and were made welcome despite our boots and wet leggings.  We sat with a pint of Black Sheep Holy Grail and discussed the day's walk.


 

Wednesday, 1 June 2016

 

New Blog!

I've made a photo blog of our recent walk, The Inn Way to the North York Moors, the 89 mile circular walk devised by Mark Reid.

If you're interested it's here!

The Inn Way to the North York Moors