"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Thursday 5 March 2015



Nether and Over Silton to Thimbleby Hanging Stone



7 miles                               Clear and dry



This is one of our favourite walks as it has a bit of everything, moors, villages, forests and even a reservoir... or it did the last time we were here.   We parked at the moors car park two miles from Osmotherley on the Hawnby road and walked southwards along the forest path up the shoulder of Black Hambleton.



Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Walking up Black Hambleton

We passed through a gate giving access to the conifer plantation and our path, known as Moor Lane, took us steadily downhill for about 2.5 miles.  We walked down through conifers and with little of interest to see other than enormous quantities of snowdrops under the hedges, until we came upon the ruins of a lime kiln and later, near Rose Cottage, an ancient drinking trough.  


Descending Moor Lane

Old Lime kiln

Masses of snowdrops

Moor Lane becomes a tarmac road

Ancient drinking trough

Rose Cottage, set amongst the snowdrops

Moor Lane eventually ends at a T junction where we turned right and walked into the pretty village of Nether Silton.  Our path from the village was almost hidden where it leaves the road alongside the old post office, at a point opposite the chapel of All Saints.  Behind the chapel is a stone monolith in Manor House Field.  We diverted to look at the monolith and then the chapel, which Tom Scott Burns tells us was rebuilt in 1812 and whose altar rails are made from the wood of HMS Dreadnought of Lord Nelson's navy.

The old monolith in Manor House Field

 The carved letters stand for:
"Here The Grand Old Manor House Stood, The Black Beams Were Oak The Great Walls Were Good
The Walls At The East Wing Are Hidden Here, A Thatched Cottage Like A Barn Was Erected Here
AD 1765
A Wide Porch Spans A Yard And Alcove

All Saints, Nether Silton

We crossed the road to rejoin our path alongside the old post office and after crossing several fields came to the ancient and isolated church of St Mary, Over Silton, standing alone in the middle of fields without any path leading to it.  We sat in the graveyard on the Jubilee Bench and enjoyed our coffee and scones before spending some time exploring the church and reading the inscriptions on the old gravestones.


Field paths to Over Silton

St Mary's Church, Over Silton

'When though in lonely grief you sigh, for friends beloved no longer nigh, Submission, still we would reply, Thy will be done'

'All you who come my grave to see, prepare yourselves to follow me, repent in time no more delay, for youth and age will soon decay.  Life is uncertain, death is sure, Sin is the wound but Christ the cure'

'Just in the darling of my youth, then death to me was sent, and you who have a longer stay, be certain to repent'

The old church was unlocked and Clive and I entered to find the floor covered in bits of plaster which appeared to have fallen from the roof.  No electric lights of course, but our eyes gradually got used to the dark and we were able to see without lighting the candles that hung from the ceiling.  The stained glass windows are attractive and we were interested to see the old organ, which we discovered still worked by pumping the foot pedals.  We were fascinated to see that lots of the pews had pieces of butterfly wings scattered on them like confetti.  Had the butterflies wintered in the wooden ceiling slats and fallen when they died?  


Inside St Mary's, Over Silton



Clive gets some sound, though not very musical


Butterfly wings on the pews

Coming out of the church we noticed a large gravestone that was covered on both sides with dense script and walked over to see if we could make it out.  It must be the longest epitaph ever written! Here it is, and my translation written underneath with commas representing line breaks.


Mary, wife of Charles who died April 16th 1788 aged 44. 'Sweet children and husband dear, live still by faith and nothing fear, But sin which is the root of strife, The seed of death the bane of life, What am I now, dust and shade, Yourselves the same, your life doth fade, This I suggest from silent urn, that whilst I speak your heart may burn, and be in flame with heavenly love, Aspiring still to things above,'

On the back!  'Can love you hate, can life you kill, Can evil spring from God's good will.  This is his will that widowers chaste, Should trust in God and not make haste, Accept those words. Not else I crave.  Do not despise a spouses grave. And let me whisper one thing more, you and the children have in store, Treasure of sighs, tears, groans and prayers,  Of which you are the rightful heirs.  She that in silent dust doth sleep For you to God did often weep.  Struggling with God that he might give,  you grace in Christ to make you live. Hoping for this she did expire, God will you save, you shall Admire, Our pledges to thy care are given, the choicest gift of kindest heaven,  Their father, mother both in thee, United now they nearly see,  The soul that hindering wishes to be free,  Would yet a train of thoughts impart to thee,  But strives in vain the chilling hand of death.'

The epitaphs on the graves from the eighteenth century usually seem to leave a cautionary message for the living but we were baffled by the above. Exactly what was the long message about?  It must have been very expensive to have a gravestone engraved with such a long epitaph.

The base of an ancient cross

Looking back at the isolated church of St Mary, Over Silton

We walked across the fields away from the isolated church and towards the village of Over Silton where we passed by the old manor house.  TSB tells us that this was once owned by the gallant gentleman Sir George Orby Wombwell, baronet, who served with the 17th Lancers and took part in the charge of the Light Brigade at Balaclava on 25th October 1854.  His horse was shot from under him and he was taken prisoner but escaped on a Russian horse to rejoin his brigade and charge again, without sword or pistol!  He died in 1913 aged 81.   We turned right and walked beyond the houses to a left turn where our path left the road and climbed steeply into Crabtree Bank Plantation. The next 2.5 miles were through conifers, sometimes on wide forestry tracks and sometimes on narrow footpaths but always very muddy and difficult to negotiate.  We climbed steeply for the first mile then our path levelled out for a mile before dropping sharply through Big Wood towards Oakdale.

Over Silton

The old manor house at Over Silton, does the coat of arms belong to the gallant Sir George?

The old school, built 1844

We leave the lane and head up into trees

As we picked our way through the muddy tracks of Crabtree Plantation we saw the Hanging Stone above us.



The Hanging Stone

We came to a fork in the path where we turned right through a very muddy entrance and headed immediately upwards.  A steep climb took us through the Thimbleby Bank Plantation to emerge at a conifer wood below Thimbleby Moor.



Walking through Crabtree Plantation

We need to go up there!

Walking through Thimbleby Bank Plantation

Entering Big Wood

We followed a distinct path into the dense trees of Big Wood and were surprised to come to a large clearing where trees had been felled, leaving a huge untidy area that looked like The Somme.  This clearing was not here 13 months ago when we last walked through the wood.  We crossed the clearing and re-entered dense conifers following a waymarked path until we came to a slippery descent into Oak Dale.



We see Osmotherley from Big Wood

A large clearing in Big Wood

Hanging on as we start our steep descent through the trees

Reaching the bottom we exited the trees and walked up to reach the tarmac track that leads to Oakdale Reservoir and were amazed to discover that Oakdale Reservoir is no longer there!  The reservoir had been drained when we walked here in January 2014 but since then work has been carried out to remove all traces of the reservoir; seeds have been planted and grassy banks are now emerging where there was once water.  We thought it would look very nice when completed.



Leaving Big Wood

Where's the reservoir gone?!

That explains it!

There was a concrete dam there last time we passed!

Leaving Oak Dale we climbed steeply back to Hambleton Road where a brief walk took us to our car.  A short drive then took us to Osmotherley and the Queen Catherine Hotel where we discussed today's walk over a pint of Thwaites Wainwright.



Climbing back up the Cleveland Way to Hambleton Road
  
January 2014

Same point today

Thursday 26 February 2015



Hasty Bank, Cold Moor and Upper Bilsdale



8 miles                     Wet at first, then cool and dry



We parked at Clay Bank Car Park and walked straight to the top of Hasty Bank via the Cleveland Way footpath.  



Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Setting off up Hasty Bank


Tom Scott Burns suggests making a slight detour once the summit of Hasty Bank is reached, in order to find the enigmatic face of a lady carved on a rock wall who gazes eternally down into Bilsdale.   We took his suggestion as the last time we walked here my camera was on the wrong setting and my photos were spoiled.


Looking back down Hasty Bank

The lady and I gaze enigmatically down into Bilsdale

The Lady's view into Bilsdale

Leaving the Lady to her view we walked across the moor top to the Wainstones where we picked our way carefully through the slippery rocks before descending into Garfitts Gap and then climbing onto Cold Moor.   TSB says that the name Wainstones is believed to derive from the Saxon 'wanian' - to howl, and that the naming of the stones means 'stones of lamentation'. 

Approaching the Wainstones

On Cold Moor

On reaching the top of Cold Moor we turned left off the Cleveland Way and followed the track across the moor top for 2 miles, passing by a large cairn which marks the site of five burial mounds.    Further along our track we noticed a couple of wire traps set on pieces of wood.   One of them was on top of a stone wall and on examining the trap we saw it had been sprung and contained the remains of an unfortunate creature, probably a stoat, which had obviously been there for some time.  We hoped it met its end quickly and painlessly.

Trap

... and victim


We followed the track down from the moor until it became a hollow lane.  Unfortunately these hollow lanes are bridle-paths and so horses and bikes have right of access, and this one had been turned into a quagmire.  Stepping carefully through the mud we dropped down to reach the village of Chop Gate, our path joining the road near to an old Wesleyan chapel, almost hidden from the road.  The strange location is because the landowner, Lord Feversham, was C of E and totally against a non-conformist church being established in the dale.  However a local shop keeper sold the Methodists this plot of land and the chapel was built in 1858.  Apparently it contains an interesting harmonium (pump organ) but its doors were firmly locked today.


Entering the hollow lane

Hollow Lane to Chop Gate

Methodist Chapel

Wesleyan Chapel, Chop Gate

We turned left and followed the road through Chop Gate until we reached Seave Green, whose name is thought to derive from its owner in 1301, Nicholas del Seves.  We crossed the road and followed the tarmac track to Bilsdale Hall, admiring huge numbers of snowdrops along the verge as we walked.  On the left we passed Chisel Hill Mill which ceased operation in 1930 but became a recording studio that was used by Chris Rea in the 1980s, and is the subject of one of his songs, Chisel Hill.   Just past the Hall we found a sheltered spot that looked down into Stonehouse Cote and enjoyed our coffee and scones while watching a trio of sparrow hawks quartering the land below us. They were oblivious to us and making a terrific mewing noise, perhaps pairing up for the nesting season.


Seave Green

Chisel Hill Mill

Bilsdale Hall
View from our coffee stop


We then had a steep climb to the top of Urra Moor where we made a sharp left and followed the ridge, with sweeping views of Bilsdale below us.  As well as being the ridge of the moor we also noticed we were walking alongside the remains of an earthworks.  This earthworks stretches for 2.5 miles and its origin is forgotten, possibly defensive or it may have been an animal enclosure.  The ground became increasingly wet as we approached and crossed a beck below Maiden Spring.  



Looking back down to Seave Green

An old store house just under the moor top

Moor gate

Walking along Urra Moor towards Clay Bank


Crossing Maiden Spring

Looking down into Bilsdale from Urra Moor

Spring plumage!

Leaving Urra Moor, Roseberry in the distance


Leaving the beck we continued to follow the earthworks until we rejoined the Cleveland Way track on Carr Ridge.  We turned left and walked steeply down to Haggs Gate where we rejoined the main road for a few yards taking us back to Clay Bank Car Park and our car.


Dropping down to Clay Bank Car Park

More spring plumage!