"There must be dales in Paradise
Which you and I will find.."

Friday 15 January 2016



Newton-under-Roseberry to

Old Nunthorpe



7 miles                      Cold, with bright sunshine and frozen snow




Snow yesterday and frozen roads this morning persuaded us not to stray too far today so we decided do a walk from Newton-under-Roseberry.   We parked in the lay-by just beyond Newton and chatted to a couple of photographers who had been there since 7am to catch the sunrise over Roseberry Topping.  I was filled with gear-envy for their DSLRs and tripods.



Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Roseberry from our car park

The King's Head, Newton-under-Roseberry

We walked back along the road through the village and past the King's Head pub. Tom Scott Burns informs us that the King's Head dates back to 1796 and was run by an old woman known as 'Old Gag Mally Wright'  who started a fair in the village and was a 'handy body' who acted as midwife and also laid out the dead. Locals said she 'tied up t' jaws of t' dying afore tha wur deead'.  The fair developed into a kind of disorderly annual orgy attended by the lowest classes and in 1901 the Vicar of Newton, the Rev. Tugman, successfully petitioned for it to be suppressed. 

We turned into the lane to Roseberry Topping, usually impassable with mud and water but today frozen so that we progressed without even getting dirty boots and soon reached the lower slopes of the 'Teesside mini-Matterhorn'.



Roseberry Lane

We approach the wood below the Toppping

Start of the climb


TSB recounts the story of a Northumbrian princess who had been warned by an astrologer that her son Oswy would be drowned on a certain day.  To avoid this she took the child to the summit of Roseberry Topping where he would surely be safe from that fate. While she slept the child wandered off and fell down a well situated on the north eastern slope of Roseberry, fulfilling the prophecy, which led the princess to kill herself.  Mother and child were buried together and 'Os by his mother lay' and so the village of Osmotherly gained its name.   The name Roseberry has puzzled many historians.  In 1119 it was Outhenesbergh, Osenburgh in 1424 and Roseberye in 1657.  The hill was mined for iron ore between 1880 and 1926 and in 1912 the mining caused a landslip that gave the hill its distinctive shape.   We carefully climbed the hill's icy steps and then turned west to walk down to the folly built on its western slope.


Approaching Wilson's Folly

Wilson's Shooting Hut, shown as Summer House on TSB's map

We walked down from the hut to Newton Wood where we descended through trees to reach Quarry Lane, which if we turned left would take us to Cliff Rigg Quarry where whinstone was mined until the last century.  We turned right, however, and walked down to turn right again into the Ayton to Guisborough Road.  We had to walk along this busy road for about a quarter of a mile until we could turn left into a lane alongside some buildings used by the Cleveland Mountain Rescue.  



Looking back at Roseberry from Newton Wood

Descending through Newton Wood

Quarry Lane

We walked along this lane which runs parallel to the old rail bed to Langbaurgh Quarry until we found a pile of rocks which we thought would be a good spot to stop for coffee and scones.  We sat enjoying our coffee in the sunshine and were kept company by a bold robin who had obvious designs on our scones.  We were putty in his claws and before moving off we crumbled a biscuit on a rock for his lunch, then set off across the old workings of Nunthorpe Quarries where signs warned us of mine shafts and unstable ground.



Alongside Langbaurgh Quarries

We sat here for our coffee....

... with a robin who fancied scones

Through Nunthorpe Quarries

These quarries, Cliff Rigg, Langbaurgh and Nunthorpe, are all set on a ridge of whinstone that runs down to Quarry Hill Farm, and are all now disused.  We emerged from the trees that surround the old Nunthorpe Quarry to find ourselves walking briefly among the out-buildings of The Whinstone View Hotel, before crossing a stell by a small bridge into fields, where our track followed the field line.  This could only be told by looking for yellow way-marks as this part of our route appeared unwalked.  Eventually we walked alongside the imposing Quarry Hill Farm building where we were interested to see a couple of very old tractors in a field, apparently abandoned to the elements.  They were Case tractors, one a three wheeler and the other with steel wheels, both looked like museum pieces.  For more about Case Tractors click here
  


We emerge at the side of the Whinstone View Hotel

... and cross the stell into fields

Nunthorpe Stell is full to the bank tops

Our path is along field edges

Quarry Hill Farm


We spot these in a field at the farm

The first 'three wheeler' tractor I've seen

An old Case tractor


Leaving the tractors we crossed the A179 and walked over a field through some stables, to Old Nunthorpe.  The original name of the village was Torp which was amended to Nunthorpe in the early 12th century in honour of a Cistercian Nunnery.  In 1231 the nunnery moved to Baysdale.  The road through the village was glassy with ice and we remarked to a local who was getting into his car that it didn't appear to have been gritted.  "Oh yes it was gritted this morning", he told us, "but they just use grit, not salt nowadays. It's cheaper that way. They expect the traffic to push the grit into the ice but we don't get much traffic here."  We wondered if he was right?  

We walked past the old Hall, now a residential home, and turned into a footpath alongside Hall Farm which led us across a field to recross the A179. We then crossed fields to join a farm track to Morton Carr Farm. 



Horses at The Old Stables

Black Ice

Nunthorpe Hall

Weather-vane at Hall Farm

Sheep at Hall Farm

Entrance on the A179



TSB reports that Carr is a Norse word for a marshy piece of land, and these lowland meadows which are drained by numerous stells are certainly marshy.  We passed by Morton Carr Farm and turned right at its outbuildings and walked across fields towards Eastfield Farm.


Across the fields is St Mary's Church

The footpath follows the frozen wheel tracks

Morton Carr Farm

Cattle wintering in barns at Morton Carr Farm

We negotiate a flooded gate


Our path passed the front of Eastfields Farm and we were amused to see a pair of gargoyles on the roof.   We went across more fields until we reached the Middlesbrough to Whitby line where our path, which ran under a stone bridge holding the line, was flooded but frozen. Perhaps we would be able to cross the ice.  It was not to be, as we approached a Land Rover bumped along the path and with a crash burst through the ice under the bridge.  The farmer got out and chatted with us about the state of the path and what he had done to aid drainage at this point.  He got back in and drove off and we were left to devise a means of crossing to the other side of the bridge without getting our feet wet, although I can't really discuss the method we used here.  As we walked away the Whitby train provided a photo opportunity for me.



Eastfields Farm

Gargoyle at Eastfields Farm

A good path towards Roseberry...

... end in a flood and a big diversion for us.

Thanks for breaking the ice!

The Whitby train passes as we walk away

Walking over several more fields brought us to stepping stones over Main Stell and the outskirts of Newton-under-Roseberry.  We walked through the green and to our left was St Oswald's Church, unfortunately locked today.  This ancient church has an Anglo-Saxon carved stone set in the tower of the church showing a dragon and some sort of quadruped.  Tom Scott Burns says that this stone was actually described in an eleventh century book called 'Bestiaries'. It's interesting to think of what the carver must have looked like and what this area would have been like at that time.



The houses of Newton appear in the distance

Stepping stones at a narrow point of Main Stell

St Oswald's Church

Saxon carved stone set in the church tower


A few more steps took us to the Guisborough to Great Ayton road and we turned left to walk back to our car, enjoying a last look at Roseberry Topping in the afternoon sun.










Thursday 31 December 2015



Whorlton Castle and Church from Swainby



6 miles                           Cool and fine




Heavy rain for the last few days made us seek out a higher level walk where fields wouldn't be too waterlogged.  We hadn't walked to Whorlton for over a year and this walk seemed to fit the bill.  We parked at the roadside in Swainby and before crossing the river we noticed a restored pinfold, similar to the one at Osmotherley.  A pinfold is where stray animals were kept until being reclaimed after payment of a fine. We must have walked past it several times before without noticing what it was.  We then walked up the high street and turned left into a footpath just before the church.



Today's walk from The Walker's Guide to the Cleveland Hills

Restored pinfold near the Blacksmiths Arms


Swainby was a mining village so this weather-vane is very appropriate


The footpath passes along the back of houses and we quickly left Swainby, which Tom Scott Burns informs us means 'Swain's Farm', from the old Norse name Sveinn.  Our footpath soon joined a lane which took us very quickly to Whorlton Castle.  TSB tells us that there have been a number of castles on this site, even before the Domesday Book records it as Wirueltun in 1086. William the Conqueror gave the manor to Robert Count de Mortain, and then it passed into the hands of the de Meynell family.  The castle was surrounded by a deep moat over which was a drawbridge.  In 1323 Edward II was known to have stayed at Whorlton Castle while hunting deer in North Yorkshire and during the Cromwellian period Royalists held the castle and were bombarded by Roundheads from Whorl Hill to the East and Toft Hill to the West.


Footpath through Swainby village

Whorlton Castle from the road


Inside the castle

The rear of the building

We wandered round the castle and admired its location, high on a hill and still showing the remains of a deep moat surrounding it.  Holes in the stonework show where beams had once been fitted, probably supporting wooden buildings attached to the main castle.

We walked a little further along the road and came to the old Saxon church of Holy Cross. There is a tale that an underground passage links the castle to the nearby old church of Holy Cross and we decided to stop off to have a look round.  The church was locked and we peered through the grill in the chancel door.  We could just see the bog oak effigy of the second Lord Nicholas de Meynell who died in 1322, as described by TSB. (See here for description of bog oak) We explored the graveyard and its numerous ancient headstones, which looked quite eerie in the morning light.



Approaching Holy Cross Church

Separate tower

Face on stonework of church

As good a view as we can get of DeMeynell's oak memorial


Headstone from 1826

"Pass a few swiftly fleeting years, And all that now in bodies live, Shall quit like me the vale of tears, Their righteous sentence to receive"

WW2 memorial stone at Holy Cross Church

We returned to the lane and followed it to the junction with Whorlton Lane, where we climbed a stile into fields and headed straight towards Whorl Hill, which dominates the skyline.  The field paths were not as muddy as we had expected, perhaps today's strong cold wind had dried them somewhat.  

A steady climb took us into the trees of Whorl Hill (old Norse 'hvirfill' - 'high hill with a rounded top') and we continued to climb until our track levelled out and we circumnavigated the hill, just inside the tree line.  TSB informs us that in 1810 one of Britain's largest hoards of Roman silver coins (weighing 2 stones) was dug up on Whorl Hill by a local farmer whilst ploughing his field.  We followed the path with a fine view down to Swainby through the trees, until we dropped away from the main path to exit the woods at Bank Lane via the garden of a bungalow.



The trees of Whorl Hill in the distance

Field paths to Whorl Hill

Looking back to Holy Cross Church from the climb to Whorl Hill

Up Whorl Hill

The houses of Potto from Whorl Hill

Circumnavigating the hill through the trees

We turned right into Bank Lane and followed it uphill towards moorland and the trees of Faceby plantation.  A short and steep climb through the trees brought us to a path below Live Moor, where we sheltered from the wind behind a stone wall to enjoy our coffee and scones.


Bank Lane towards Faceby plantation

Climbing through the trees towards Live Moor

We stop along here to enjoy our coffee....

... before climbing to the top of Live Moor

Looking back towards Whorl Hill

On Live Moor we joined the Cleveland Way path, just below Gold Hill, and turned right to follow it straight into a cold head-wind.  We followed the Cleveland Way until we descended down a slippery slope to Huthwaite Green where we were surprised to see an old railway goods vehicle at the side of the path. This reminded us that the mineral railway once ran up this valley into Scugdale, although little trace can be seen of it now. 



Looking across at Scugdale from the Cleveland Way

We remember this cairn as being much bigger years ago

Approaching Huthwaite Green

Old railway truck at path-side


Crossing Scugdale Beck, the Cleveland Way acorn is on the bridge

We crossed the beck and followed our path, still the Cleveland Way, across a couple of fields and then turned right into a distinct forest path.  This led us alongside the beck for a mile and looking over to the east we could at all times see Whorl Hill and our outward path. Eventually our path fell gradually to join Coalmire Lane, the old Swainby to Sheepwash road, which we followed back towards the village.

Our path is in those trees

Following the path towards Coalmire Lane

Ornate weather-vane on farm building in Coalmire Lane
  
We strolled into Swainby and followed the river through the village until we saw the Black Horse pub on our right.  It seemed a shame to pass the pub on New Year's Eve without stopping to toast ourselves and everyone else, "To long drinks and short walks" 
Happy New Year!



Swainby

The Black Horse

Happy New Year!